The 289 Register


http://www.289register.com/ / http://www.289register.de/
http://www.289cobra.com/ / http://www.cobra289.de/

Newsletter Issue Number 10, Winter/Spring 2001/2002


What? A 1963 Daimler SP250 in the '289 Register' Newsletter!
Bud Stets has fitted a 1965 Ford 289 Hi-Po engine, 1984 Chevrolet Corvette front suspension and Jaguar IRS - only in America!
Contents
The 289 Register 'Officials'
Editorial - David Butcher & David Pilbeam
Cookie's Chatter - John Cooke
Replacing the Rear Axle on a BRA 289 - David Butcher
Threads Revisited - Gerry Hawkridge
Demistifying Electrics - Charles Fox
Building my Hawk - Mike Ballance
A Wet Weekend Spent Going Around in Circles - David Butcher
Exhausting News - David Pilbeam
Attention All Kitcar Owners Clubs - Steve Hole
Get Switched On and Lit Up - Gerry Hawkridge
All Wiped Out - Gerry Hawkridge
Stylish Gear - Gerry Hawkridge
351 into 289 does go! - John Abel
Cobra, The Real Thing - Terry Wills
Del Boy's page (Regalia) - Paul Alexander
New Products
For Sale
Cars For Sale
Wanted
Assorted E-Mails
Events for 2002
Nürburgring OldTimer Grand Prix
Next Newsletter

The 289 Register 'Officials'

Secretary - David Pilbeam
7 Coney Croft, Horsham, West Sussex, RH12 4EW
tel - 0044-1403-269083
email - mailto:DWPilbeam@aol.com

Treasurer - Geoff Law
23 Ponds Road, Galleywood, Essex, CM2 8QP
tel - 0044-1245-283535
email - mailto:GTL@gtlaw.freeserve.co.uk

Meetings Coordinator - Graham Fry
Woodview, Sheepstreet Lane, Etchingham, East Sussex, TN19 7AY
tel - 0044-1580-819228
email - mailto:GF289@aol.com

Shows Coordinator - John Cooke
The Coach House, Chapel Road, Hothfield, Ashford, Kent, TN25 4LN
tel - 0044-1233-713878
email - mailto:cookie-2000@fsbdial.co.uk

For Sale/Wanted & Regalia - Paul (Del Boy) Alexander
9 Ladies Mile Road, Brighton, East Sussex, BN1 8QE
tel - 0044-1273-562727

Newsletter and Web Site Custodians - David & Andrea Butcher
Praelet-Lewen Strasse 30, 53819 Neunkirchen-Seelscheid, Germany
tel - 0049-2247-300165
fax - 0049-2247-300299
email - mailto:david@289register.com

Membership:	Contact the Secretary (David Pilbeam). Membership runs from January to December. UK membership £10 per year. Overseas membership £15.
Copy:	Preferably in electronic format to the Editor (David Butcher)
Disclaimer:	Opinions expressed in this newsletter are not necessarily those of the Editor or other club officials. Neither the 289 Register nor its Officers accept responsibility or liability for the result of following contributor's advice.

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Editorial
by "The Two Davids"
Ch..ch..ch...changes
Hopefully most of you won’t even have noticed the recent change in the "289 Register". Due to increased family commitments (does that mean you, Amanda?), David Pilbeam will no longer be able to continue his multi-tasking and very time-consuming role of Secretary and Newsletter Editor / Publisher. To this end, the Two Ronnies Davids (Butcher and Pilbeam) will be attempting a co-ordinated double act without the use of safety nets, whereby I (David Butcher, henceforth to be known as DaveB) have volunteered (?) to attempt to take on the role of Newsletter Editor, and David Pilbeam (henceforth to be known as DavidP) will continue to support the Register as Secretary, and to assist me (DaveB) with the Newsletter. Because of the logistics of DaveB living on the wrong side of the Channel (where the locals even drive on the wrong side of the road), DavidP will still arrange the publication and distribution of said Newsletter.

This Newsletter is the first of this joint effort, and hopefully the transition was painless for you. Because it is somewhat overdue, we have tried to compensate by making it a Bumper Issue.

There are no current plans to change the format of the Newsletter, but "majority rules", so any requests for changes will be considered. With only just over 100 members and a low annual membership fee, we cannot hope to produce a magazine to rival "Snake Torque". Colour printing is very expensive, but colour monitors are not, so those of you lucky enough to have Internet access will still be able to view the Newsletter (current and back-issues) in glorious colour, using your chosen ID and Password to log in to those pages whose access is restricted to "289 Register" members. If there are any of you Internetters out there who haven't yet got access to these pages, just drop an e-mail to mailto:david@289register.comlisting your chosen log-in ID and Password - shortly after which your details will be added to the access code.

Web Site Address
Whilst on the subject of the "289 Register" web site, don't forget that every "289 Register" member has their own page. Please send DaveB any details and photographs of your car (or yourselves) that you would like to be included - this also goes for those of you without Internet access, you can still let others enjoy your pride and joy (or advertise any items - including cars - for sale or wanted on the web site).

DaveB is currently in the process of transferring the "289 Register" web site onto another server (albeit with the same provider). This is to take advantage of cheaper tariffs that have recently been introduced. Up until now, DaveB has been paying £10 p.c.m. for the web site - this will shortly be reduced to £5 p.c.m., which the "289 Register" has kindly agreed to reimburse. Another advantage is that we have gained two new URLs - entering either http://www.289register.com/ or http://www.289cobra.com/ (in addition to the original http://www.289register.de/ and http://www.cobra289.de/) will now take you to the web site.

So, with great trepidation (and sweaty fingers), this newsletter is finally under way. However, in order to maintain the excellent quality and standards set by DavidP, we desperately need articles, photographs or snippets of news from the world of 289ing from YOU, since it is YOUR Newsletter and YOUR Web Site. Please send these to DaveB (either at the e-mail or postal address given in the "Officials" page earlier), and direct any complaints about the Newsletter and/or Web Site to DavidP.
All photographs will be returned (after scanning in), usually within a fortnight.

Loan Equipment
The club has a policy of making available for loan to members expensive equipment which would otherwise only be used once or twice. No deposit is required and there is no fee. All members need to do is pay the postage or collect the equipment and return it in good condition within 3 weeks of borrowing it.

Equipment available

SVA manual - selected pages can be photocopied or scanned and emailed

Hawk front suspension fitting jig

Hood/tonneau lift-the-dot fastener fitting punch

Loan rules

3 week maximum loan period

loanee pays postage cost or collects

no deposit and no fee

for more details contact the Secretary (DavidP)

2002 Subscriptions
This years subscriptions are now due. Since last year around 50 members began regularly paying their annual subscriptions by standing order. This saves time and effort chasing members and also avoids time taken examining bank statements to determine if a cheque has been sent. £10 is a reasonably small sum and members often contact me at the beginning of each year to confirm that they have or haven't paid, because tracking such a small sum is so difficult. So, come on those of you who are committed members, complete the enclosed Standing Order Mandate for 2003 and send it off to your bank and never again will you have to remember to pay your subscriptions again. Please insert your name after Reference. You will still have to remember to send your £10 in for this year though. However, if you do complete the SO mandate it will keep Geoff, our hard working treasurer, in the garage building his car instead of chasing late subscriptions. Unless of course he finishes it before next January!

The next issue will contain a list of current members so please ensure you send in your £10 subscriptions in order to be listed.

SVA - beware!
Neil Herridge recently reported that a member was refused an SVA pass because his front indicator lights were less than the required 350mm above ground height. Graham Fry, Neil Herridge and DavidP immediately dashed off to our respective garages to check our chariots. There was a wide disparity in height above ground. Graham's indicators were about 370mm above ground, DavidP’s were 345mm and Neil's were smack on 350mm. Fortunate for Neil as he has yet to submit his 289 to the SVA and DavidP doesn't really care because he avoided the whole SVA process by completing Eleanor just before SVA came into force. The rules state:

"Lamp/reflector...... vertical position is measured from the ground; ......to the edge of the illuminated area...."

Apparently the member concerned actually addressed the problem by adjusting the front spring seat to jack the front of the car up the required amount. However, if you are in the build process please avoid the issue by ensuring that your indicators are at the required height...and remember that even the front springs settle a bit!

Insurance
Included in this edition is an advert for Adrian Flux kit car insurance. If you are looking around for a good deal I would urge you to include them in your research. There are a number of good companies around who will insure your pride and joy but depending upon your requirements (track cover, build insurance, agreed value) you may find one particular company that suits your needs better. Adrian Flux have been around for a number of years and are one of the better known names in the business so you could do worse and give them a call when renewing for 2002.

Windscreen sticker
Also included in the envelope is a new windscreen sticker. The last time these were sent one out was back in 1999 and I suspect they are looking a bit scrappy now. Don't throw the envelope away until you have retrieved it!

*** STOP PRESS ***
Club BBQ - Sunday 25^th August - Sittingbourne, Kent
Yes, yes..due to popular demand this year we are having a club do! Actually it's not due to popular demand, although I know there are a large number of you out there who have been asking for such an event. It is actually taking place because Stuart Gilbert has kindly offered to host the club BBQ at his palatial abode in Oad Street (no it's not a street, it's a hamlet). Actually I have no idea of the palatiality of Stuart's pad except that he has room for at least 20 cars, which is exactly 18 more than I have room for at Chez Pilbeam!...so.... The details are:

Time:	Noon, til whenever.
Date:	Sunday 25th August - Bank Holiday Sunday so no work on Monday
Cost:	£5 a head, but bring drinks
Deadline for commitment:	Wednesday 12th June

Send cheques for the total amount to Stuart at:

Orchards
Oad Street
Sittingbourne
Kent
ME9 8JX

You can contact Stuart on his work and home number, tel: 0044-1795-843116
Or via e-mail on: stuartgilbert@orchards45.fsnet.co.uk although he doesn't monitor his email every day.

You can be sure that this will be oversubscribed so get in soon. I am posting off £10 immediately so you will definitely see Amanda and me there together with Eleanor.


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Cookies Chatter
by John Cooke
A prosperous 2002 to you all.

It’s that time of the year when the days start to grow longer and the dormant feelings of all Cobra owners start to awaken. I for one cannot wait to get behind the wheel of my snake, take to a salt free blacktop and blow away the winter cobwebs.

It is also the time to start planning 2002.

Looking back over 2001 provides us all with plenty of memories and some exciting driving. My own thoughts naturally centre on the shows, starting with Stafford and Detling. Both suffered from the lack of new kit car manufactures and the loss of many names that are no longer trading. The nucleus of those that are still in business there are producing cars that are first class. These kits, having to pass the SVA test are now built to a much higher standard, but of course cost more.

Both of these shows will survive because they give good value for money to both the Manufacturers and visitors alike. I feel the clubs will become an important aspect of these events.

Stoneleigh last year also put a lot of visitors through the turnstiles and once again proved our industry is right up with best in the world for hand built cars. It was evident also that there were many people at the show who were encouraged to attend from a concerted advertising campaign in the main stream magazines like Top Gear, Fast Car etc., This can only encourage new people to buy Kit Cars.

Donnington Park show was well up to its usual standard, most of the major manufacturers were there, with the added bonus of the track usage - this makes a show of interest to visit.

What a show to finish the year off! Exeter 2001 was the best ever! The show was over-subscribed and full to brimming, big crowds (over 8000 people) crammed the hall. Plenty of orders were placed for kits and the traders reported good sales.

Our sister club the West Country region of the CRC put on one of the best display of Cobras I have seen.

Next year 16-17 November, at Exeter and Detling I would love the "289 Register" to have a go at putting on a good stand. Ring me or David for details.

The 2002 Exeter show will have to pull out all the stops to better 2001. The Great Western must be one of the biggest and best shows of the year.

What’s in store for 2002?
Stafford 9^th - 10^th March, then Detling Kent 6^th - 7^th April finishing up the year on 16^th - 17^th November at Exeter. See my web site for all Kit Car show dates http://www.kitcar-shows.co.uk/ or visit http://www.totalkitcars.com/

Something new is to take place at Westpoint Exeter on the 23^rd - 24^th March. It’s the SPORTS & SUPERCAR Show. ‘Cookie’s’ brand new show is not a Kit Car show, but will encompass everything sports cars. Vauxhall are to launch two new production sports cars and show us their Touring championship race car. Audi have a new Coupe this will be seen in the West Country for the first time along side a new TT coupe and a Touring Championship race car. Hyundia also will show their all new sports car. TVR, Morgan, Super fast AC, Ginetta, Lotus, Mazda. BMW Mini - plus lots more, Drag and hot rods, American and classic Sprint and Race cars. There will be around 10 Kit Car Companies showing Hand Built British turn key sports cars. Exeter Motor Club will stage an Auto-test and static display. Over 100 various cars will be on show within the hall, together with the usual trade exhibits.

Again the West Country CRC are to put on a new and different display of our beloved Cobra’s. How about a couple of volunteers from the "289 Register" to go head to head with them?

More info can be obtained from: http://www.car-shows.co.uk/. I look forward to seeing you all at the shows this year. Please e-mail me on cookie-2000@fsbdial.co.uk on any topic.


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Replacing the Rear Axle on a BRA 289
by David Butcher
Only five days before we were to head off to Belgium for Eric and Sabines‘ excellent Zolder track weekend in September 2001, whilst pulling forwards slowly into a parking space outside the Pub for Sunday lunch, our BRA 289 emmitted a loud BANG from the back end, and all forward (and reverse) motion was lost. The frantic and long evenings that ensued to get our Formula 27 V8 into a suitable condition for Zolder is another story, and the BRA was laid up for its winter hibernation slightly earlier than usual. Later investigation revealed that the right halfshaft was broken, and I decided to take this opportunity (or excuse) to replace the aging MGB (3.3:1) rear axle with a rebuilt MGB V8 (3.07:1) rear axle, which was duly ordered from Bromsgrove MG (for a price quoted via E-Mail of £645 - which later appeared as £775 on my Mastercard statement).
To this end, a detour was made to Bromsgrove during the Christmas break, and we left our original axle with Bromsgrove MG as a pattern, so that they could weld the panhard rod bracket onto the rebuilt axle in the correct place (for an additional £75). Once we had returned home and the temperature in the garage had soared up into double figures (°C), I attempted to fit this rebuilt axle.

After a weekend of struggling and turning the air in the garage blue with obscenities, I have established the following .......

1) the east-west distance between the springs and the brackets welded onto the Bromsgrove MG rebuilt axle is not the same - the axle brackets are almost 2cm further apart than the springs in their relaxed positions. Various tools (lengths of discarded exhaust pipe) were used to splay the springs apart until the locating pins could mate up with the holes in the axle brackets. According to Bromsgrove MG, the east-west tolerance is +/- 1cm, so maybe we were lucky that the original brackets were welded on at exactly the right distance apart(?)

2) unfortunately, Bromsgrove MG cut the bracket for the panhard rod off my original axle and welded it onto the rebuilt axle at the wrong angle and in the wrong place, so that my original panhard rod cannot be attached. The solution here is fairly simple - cut the old panhard rod in half, weld a nut onto each of the open ends, and rejoin the two halves with a thread - thereby making it adjustable in length and allowing the bushes to be offset or twisted (rather than being fixed parallel to each other, as at present)

3) once the springs had been splayed apart and the axle bolted down onto them, I attempted to refit the propshaft. To my horror, I realised that this was impossible! Without any load on the springs (so the axle had dropped down until it came to rest on the lower chassis beams), and with the propshaft pulled down as far as the chassis beam under it would allow, there was still an altitude difference of almost 3cm between the propshaft and axle flanges, preventing the propshaft bolts from being refitted.

This occurred because the axle brackets on the rebuilt axle were welded on at a different angle, causing the nose of the axle casing (and flange for the propshaft) to point downwards slightly, rather than upwards to mate up with the propshaft (as on my original axle).

My (should be patented?) solution is to have a pair of wedge-shaped adaptors made up (based on the rectangular blocks used in the Spax 1" lowering kit) to be fitted between the axle and springs, so that the axle is rotated into the correct position. The dimensions of these required wedges are from 0mm to 7mm (or 10mm to 17mm, whatever) across the 108mm length of the plates that are sandwiched between the axle and the springs.

After discussing this with fellow Register members, it seems that this should not be an issue with Hawk 289s (or MGBs / MGCs), since they do not have the offending strengthening chassis beam running east-west limiting the vertical movement of the propshaft. But if you are about to fit or replace the rear axle on your BRA 289, you have been warned! Check first, and instruct whoever is preparing the axle for you of these potential pitfalls.
And even on a Hawk 289, although the propshaft will drop down further to meet up with the axle flange in this position, I think the propshaft universal joints will have a much harder time having to transmit all that V8 power and torque through the resultant kinks.


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Threads Revisited
by Gerry Hawkridge
Whilst working on our new 289 FIA car for the coming season's shows, I was trying to locate various fittings for plumbing in the fuel system. I was discussing the specification of the various original parts that were used on the cars in the 1960's, with my very good friend, Brian Goodall, of BGC Motorsport Components (0044-1945-466690 - if you need help!).
We got onto the subject of AN fittings, now there is a lot of confusion with various threads and indeed there are so many types, - but where did AN come from??

The AN Series originates from the aerospace industry. Apparently, after the Second World War, there was a tremendous abundance of allsorts of specialist equipment. Many businesses, started up in fact, selling Army surplus etc., Amongst some of the items that were available in huge quantities, and at very cheap prices, were surplus lightweight, and reliable hose fittings, and many racers and their mechanics saw the usefulness of these components. Not really surprising, as many of the race mechanics of the 50's and 60's learnt their skills working on planes during the war !!

These fittings were very high quality, and because they were fairly cheap, some of the supplies started to dry up, and other fittings were needed to fit the job. Companies like Earls, in the U.S.A. (in fact Earls started as an aircraft surplus supply company) and Goodridge in the U.K., were born to fulfil the demand.

Ironically, the aircraft industry standard (and most of the surplus stock ), were Aeroquip, but they did not see the market for motorsport related fittings until much later!!

The AN series derives from the Army-Navy specs., also known by some as the Airforce Navy specs., this was because the American Air Force is the United States Army Airforce!!!

The way that the AN works, is that the "dash" size relates to the outside diameter of a rigid tube, into which it fits to, in 1/16" steps, so in strict AN terms, a dash 8 fitting would be fitted to a 1/2" o.d. tube. Also specific threads are related to each of these sizes. An AN 8 is a 3/4" x 18 t.p.i., which is a U.N.F. based thread with a 37 degree seating cone. These are known as J.I.C. (Joint Industry Council) in the U.K., (also now known as S.A.E. 37). Whereas, in the U.S.A., however the S.A.E. spec. is the same thread form, but with a 45 degree seating cone.

Best regards Gerry.

P.S. Gerry has recently acquired the following appropriate web site URLs - http://www.hawk289.com/, http://www.hawk427.com/ and http://www.hf3000.com/.
And you can see the new Kirkham catalogue at www.427sc.info/nyauto/index.html, plus a live-webcam at www.427sc.info/webcam/index.html.


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Demistifing Electrics
by Charles Fox
When you’re chatting about building a car, it’s obvious that many people are terrified about tackling the wiring themselves. They see it as a black art, impossibly complex, prone to faults and difficult to fix. I used to feel the same way - I remember standing in snow drifts, Haynes Manual wiring diagram in hand, trying to work out why the horn wouldn’t work on my Mini. I fixed it by kicking it, but I never understood why that worked! However, many years later, I have now seen the light, and now view wiring as one of the more interesting and rewarding aspects of building a car. Am I sad or what?

Wiring is pretty straightforward and very logical Captain, provided that you understand a few basic rules about how electricity works, and how to apply it to a Hawk. Dave Pilbeam suggested I write some notes, so blame him.

Terminology

Volts are like horsepower - they are a measure of grunt. Too much can be dangerous. 12 volts is enough to power most car circuits without being dangerous.

Amps are like speed (MPH not the drug), and should be treated with the same respect. The only car circuits that use more than about 5 amps are the starter motor and alternator. A starter motor will require about 300 amps to turn over a Rover V8, and maybe 500 amps for monster ironwork.

Batteries are pumps. Their main aim in life is, given the opportunity, to squirt out 300-500 amps from the + side and have it come back into the - side. They will pump out as many amps as possible unless you apply the brakes, or ‘resistance’ as scientists call it. Resistance is what the various bulbs and instruments provide. Even a wee little bulb has a very high resistance.

Circuit - Electricity only flows if a circuit is complete i.e. out the + side of a battery, through a wire to a say a bulb, back down another wire to the - side of the battery. Switches make and break the circuit. Electricity will very happily flow along any metal path between one side of a battery and the other. Your Mr. T medallion collection, rings, beer tins, spilled beer, spanners, chassis rails and wiring harness all make excellent conductors of electricity, and will be forced into service if you allow it, causing blown fuses, alarming sparks, melted wiring or in really bad cases - vehicle fires. The aim is to limit the flow to ONLY those conductors which are required. Fortunately this is pretty easy and taken care of by the wiring harness.

Fuse - A replaceable weak point in the circuit which is designed to fail if a particular amps is exceeded. This means that a fault in say the headlights does not set the wiring harness alight.

Relay - These are little boxes of magic which act a bit like a switch for high amperage currents like the headlamps. When you throw the switch on the dashboard, the relay is energized and internally throws a heavy duty switch on the actual headlamp circuit. This saves money on heavy duty wire and is also much safer.

Alternator - This is a device which converts rotary motion into electricity, which is then used like a battery charger to keep the battery alive. A typical car alternator can throw out 70 amps of power, so needs a fairly thick cable. The alternator is connected to the + side of the battery, so that electricity is pumped out of the alternator and into the battery for storage. When not rotating, the ‘push’ from the battery causes a net flow into the alternator, and the red warning light is lit. As soon as rotation starts, the alternator starts fighting back, the net flow is outwards towards the battery, and by means of magic (a diode if anyone is still awake), the warning light goes out.

Safety 12 volt electricity is not dangerous. Amps is the one to be careful with. The battery is designed to deliver 300-500 amps during starting, and this is ample to jump an air gap of an inch or so. Such a huge flow requires thick wires to allow it to flow freely, and also to keep the heat down. If you accidentally touch a thin wire from the + to the - side of a battery there will be a huge spark as the battery tries to pump 300+ amps, and the wire will get very hot. Within a few seconds it could melt the insulation. So be warned.

Earthing In tin top cars there is a wire from the battery + terminal to the bulb, however no wire from bulb back to the battery - terminal. This is because the circuit is completed by electricity flowing through the metal body of the car back to an earth strap linking chassis/body to battery. In a fibreglass car, there has to be a wire from the bulb holder back to a nearby chassis rail. The electricity then flows back down the chassis, up the earth strap to the battery - terminal. All sorts of bizarre things sort of don’t quite work if this return circuit is not working, so make sure you have two heavy duty braided earth straps running between chassis and engine block, and chassis and battery. (Make sure the straps are heavy duty and the metal to metal contact is good. My Rover now turns over twice as fast since adding a second earth strap and cleaning up the contacts.)

Colours Colours are there to help, not hinder. There is logic to them. Every wire is either a solid main colour or main colour plus pin stripe. Tricky if you’re colour blind or upside down in the foot well with a torch in your mouth!

Black - Earth wire usually terminated via a ring connector onto a chassis or scuttle frame bolt.
Brown - Live from battery, NOT FUSED and NOT SWITCHED. These wires are usually several millimeters thick. Treat carefully, as if connected direct to metalwork are likely to spark wildly and try to deliver 300 amps into your medallion.
Green - Live from battery, FUSED and IGNITION SWITCHED. These wires have already been through one of the fuses in the fuse box, and are only live when the ignition key is turned to ON.
White - Live from battery, NOT FUSED and IGNITION SWITCHED. Used for things like the immobiliser.

Useful main/stripe colour combinations are:-
Blue/Red - Dip beam
Blue/White - Main beam
Green/White - Offside Indicators
Green/Red - Nearside Indicators
Red/Orange - Fog light
Light green - Gauges
Red - Side lights
Black/Orange or Orange - Radiator fan(s)

Testing The best way I’ve found to test circuits is with a voltmeter. Press one end to an earth point and the other to a connector, and it will tell you whether current is flowing. This is really useful for checking that earths are working, switches are wired up correctly and whether current is flowing or not.

Another useful piece of test kit is a 12 volt bulb with two 2 meter wires soldered onto it, each with a crocodile clip on the end. This allows you to bypass whole sections of the wiring harness and input power straight into a circuit. Very useful for checking things like headlights. (The 12 volt bulb is needed to prevent 300+ amps pumping down the test wire, and is also a useful tell tale.)

Some Tips Here are a few tips that I have found valuable:-

Buy yourself a voltmeter, but don’t bother with one of those multi-functions jobbies. I did, and the only function I ever use is the voltmeter. Could have bought 17 cans of Boddys with the money I wasted……

Make the thick red cable from the battery to starter motor the thickest 500 amp job you can find. This allows the battery to pump out electricity much faster, thereby giving you a better start, especially on a cold day when the oil is thick and the battery reluctant. (Don’t forget the earth straps must be similarly large to allow the electricity to flow out of the engine back into the battery, otherwise its like road works on the M25.)

Fit the red battery cable inside the car. This looks much neater and gives you the opportunity to put a master switch somewhere inside the car. Fit it before you fit the dash!

If a fuse keeps blowing, the fault is after the fuse, not before it. Knowing this usually simplifies the process of locating a fault.

There are a few black wires in the Hawk harness which are not earths, however these do not terminate in ring connectors so are easy to spot.

Make the dashboard easy to remove. There’s more wiring behind the dash than anywhere else, so being able to access it easily means you can drink beer whilst working on the car. I have spent much of the last 6 months lying on my back in the foot wells, and have yet to work out how to sip Boddys without it spilling all over your clothes - what a waste!

When working out the layout for the dashboard, don’t forget to allow space for the non-electrical items such as choke cable and squirters. Guess who forgot! Also, get straight in your head how many warning lights you want - eg low oil pressure, brake fluid low, handbrake etc.

The dashboard is too thick for some switches. I ground away some of the fiberglass with an angle grinder, however I’m told this is animal behaviour. Maybe there is a more elegant solution, but it worked for me. Do it before you get the dash covered. Guess who forgot that as well!

Buy yourself a decent wire stripper and one of those sets of crimping tools and connectors. Both are quite expensive and worth every penny.

Buy the wiring harness, immobiliser etc from Gerry. The quality is excellent, technical support first class, and you know it’s going to work. Mucking about with donor vehicle wiring harnesses is doomed to failure as the wires are likely to be brittle and uncharted. I looked into making my own wiring harness, and I didn’t think I could make one for the price of a new one.

The green/yellow from the heater switch is NOT an earth. All resemblance to domestic wiring is entirely coincidental.

This is all a bit heavy. Persevere however, because once you’ve mastered these basics the rest is easy. Wiring a car is no more difficult than other jobs, it just needs to be tackled in a logical and organised way.


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Building My Hawk 289
- The Start of Something Big
by Mike Ballance
Day One
On a very wet Saturday morning, my chassis/body unit in BRG arrived.
Four sturdy friends helped move it from the back of the carrier and into the garage. At that time of day, cans of beer seemed inappropriate and my friends were all happy to accept tea or coffee.
The body now rests on four axle stands, protected by small squares of (green) carpet. And there it will probably stay for quite some time. A daunting task faces me each time I look at it.

New and old parts
When I ordered the kit, I also purchased a rear axle from an MGB. It comes complete with many new and refurbished parts. I cleaned it with an orbital sander for the smoother areas and a wire brush in an electric drill for the less accessible parts. I have a copy of the MGA MGB Owners Workshop Manual (Autobooks 1975). I've copied the pages that cover the rear axle, suspension, brakes and steering. These pages, together with the manual provided by Hawk Cars, are in transparent wallets that can be wiped clean or replaced.

Elbow grease
The original backing plate for the drum brakes was rusty and muddy. The wheel hubs will not be needed, as the kit includes new ones. With the help of an electric sander and the wire brush in the drill, the back axle gradually became cleaner. It was hard work! With the sander, it is possible to bring the axle back to the bare metal. This is not necessary! The wire brush was really useful, getting into all the corners around the brake drums and back plate. After cleaning, I used Hammerite Smooth to paint the axle parts. The wheel hub and the back plate were painted black. I used a brush for the axle, and green paint, as I couldn't find black on the shelf at that time. The original wheel mountings proved useful spacers for supporting the leaf springs prior to assembly. I discovered that the restraining strap can only be attached when the car is lowered on its wheels. That explains why it currently does not appear to be long enough!

The Third Spring
The third spring from the rear brake assembly caused much head scratching. I can see that I removed three from the original and they are exactly the same as the three new ones supplied by Gerry, but I could only see where two of them go, and only those two are shown in the MGA/MGB manual. Eventually I realised that it’s for the handbrake cable!

Split pins
When fitting the hubs for wire wheels, there is a serrated nut that fits into the centre. This is to enable a split pin to prevent that nut from undoing, and causing the undoing of the driver no doubt. On the assembly I received, there was only one present. I wonder if the previous owner knew this? Obviously, all small parts like these split pins and most nuts and bolts are replaced with new ones.

Front suspension bits
The wishbone assembly and pivot were second-hand, so more grinding and cleaning! But the other parts were a mixture of new and reconditioned. After cleaning and painting, it was time to assemble these parts. Here, I needed to develop a special jig, consisting of a long bolt and various washers in order to persuade the rubber bushes into their proper places on the wishbone assemblies. Again, the small rubber and metal parts were all brand new and needed to be assembled in the correct order.

Special plates
At this point I discovered what the special fixing plates are for, and I also discovered that you need to saw off a little from some of the bolts. All is clearly explained in the manual, as well as the explanation given to me by Gerry when I collected them. The front suspension assembly is now almost complete, and will be just as soon as I figure out how to get the spring safely in place.

Unashamed website plug
This story is being displayed for the world to see at http://www.hawk289.f9.co.uk/ and includes many pictures.


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A Weekend Spent Going Around in Circles
by David Butcher
Once again, we were fortunate enough to be invited by Eric and Sabine Wouter to take part in their "Oracle Cars" track weekend, as part of the VAB (Belgian AA club) Auto Festival on 8^th and 9^th September 2001, which is intended to give the paying public a chance to acquaint themselves with the old Formula 1 race circuit at Zolder in an exotic car of their choice. Because words alone cannot describe this experience (those of you who were there know what I mean - where do I start? - perhaps with the superb company, or the excellent hospitality and food at Chez Wouters, or a weekend of free track time, burning off the Dodge Viper and more Lotus Elises and Exiges than I could shake a panhard rod at), I have included a large number of photographs of this event. These (and many others) can be also be seen in colour on the "289 Register" web site (follow the links from the Front Page to "Events", "Past Events", "Zolder - view photos").

This year, the weather was wet. Very wet. VERY VERY WET. It may have been better than forecast, but that's not saying much! The track was incredibly slippery, often with rivers flowing across it (sometimes inconveniently in braking zones or half way around a corner), and as soon as the track started to dry out, another shower or storm arrived, catching many cars and their drivers out. Hence the first priority for the Batt family was to change the slick tyres for wet weather rubber on their GT 40 replica.


Once these formalities were over, it was soon time for the Batts' GT 40 to get out on the track!


Mike Ramsden taking it very easy in his lovely Hawk 289 - could you wave at the camera on your next lap, please?


The new owner of Gerry Hawkridge's ex-demonstrator 289 FIA (39PH) replica brought it back to Zolder.


Graham "lead foot" Fry at speed in his Hawk 289.


As well as the usual strong turnout of 289s, this year saw an excellent gathering of Hawk Strato's - including those of regulars Martin Patterson and Chris Richards ....


.... and John Rutter with his championship-winning HF3000.


This is a rare sight of the extremely fast Tiger Z100 stationary - taken at lunchtime, when track silence requirements forced a welcome break for all drivers. With twin Kawasaki motorbike engines, each capable of producing 170 bhp, you can choose to use either engine independantly, or both together. I wish I had managed to get a ride in this monster!


The Brookes ME190 of Eric & Sabine Wouter


In case you got the impression that the only interesting cars were those of the "Oracle" team, there were a few others - including this lovely ’65 Sunbeam Tiger, complete with paw marks and appropriate registration.

Early mechanical problems hit one of the four Strato's replicas and our Formula 27 V8, both of which suffered from a broken throttle cable (in my case, it occurred because when I fitted the new Weber 500 carburretor a few evenings previously, I took up the slack in the cable on tickover, and never realised that the butterflies were fully open when the pedal still had 1cm of travel before the metal! In order to repair and refit the throttle cable, I had to stand on my head in the front footwell, with my legs draped over the rear roll bar - and in the process of manoeuvering into or out of this obscene position, I must have rearranged something behind the dashboard, because the next track outing resulted in the engine cutting out and the drivers footwell filling up with blue smoke, with a minor on-board fire.

During the indignity of being towed back by a Mondeo Estate at 25mph around the 90° right before the short back-straight, I heard frantic tyre squealing behind us. Looking in the rear-view mirror, I saw a Lotus Elise travelling sideways at high speed towards us - he hadn't realised how much slower we were travelling on the apex, so hit the anchors and lost it in the panic. Not fancying explaining the modifications to the back end of the F27 (where the fuel tank is) on the insurance claim form, I quickly swerved to the right and off the track, leaving the back of the Mondeo Estate to slow the errant Elise.

Suddenly, our F27, the unfortunate passenger and I were all covered in a brown stinking sludge! On the inside of the track, there was a large hole full of stagnant mud that I had just driven into, and we were plucked back out just as quickly by the tow rope. The Elise missed the Mondeo by inches, and when the Mondeo driver and passenger looked back at us, they nearly wet themselves laughing - and they were still talking about our mud bath on Sunday evening, when we said cheerio! Back in the pits, I found that the tacho housing had had 12V applied to it, which had burnt away its earth and bulb earth cables - but the mischievous 12V cable was never found (another project for the winter?). Luckily, we had no more problems for the rest of the weekend (apart from losing half of the screws securing one front mudguard, which necessitated removal of the remaining screws and guard itself - albeit on the passenger side, so they got even more spray thrown up over them - all part of the Zolder experience!)

Gentlemen, start your engines .... One of many highlights of the weekend was watching the Nissan Skyline going through the mini-chicane, changing the 45° sideways drift from left to right to left again at about 90 mph (I was trying to follow through behind at about 70 mph). As if to prove it was no fluke, the driver (or rather the cars' electronics) did this lap after lap after lap!

Over the two days, I eventually totalled 238 miles going around in circles for 95 laps with 46 different passengers at an average of 13.5 mpg (luckily the 17.6 gallons of petrol was free!) - and at least 2/3 of that distance was covered on Sunday.

It will seem like a long wait until the next time on 7^th and 8^th September 2002!


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Exhausting News
by David Pilbeam
Last year when Graham and I were approaching the start of the Liege-Corse Endurance trial we were struck by the many poetic descriptions of Corsica. Most of this was in the picturesque vein, but in amongst the torrid descriptions of craggy scenery and thrusting mist covered mountains were warnings of roads that were not quite so well kept as those in more civilised locations. Well, as those of you have read the account of the trial will know, the warnings were well heeded. I know the panhard rod ripped a hole in the chassis but nowhere did the exhaust system bottom out to any degree. I am convinced we would not have been in that happy state if the standard system was still in place. In fact I believe the standard system would not have remained in place had I not chosen to replace it with something with greater ground clearance!
Now the standard system as supplied by Hawk is perfectly fine for travelling on the smooth road surfaces that characterise the UK's roads. But for anything approaching off-road capability something that is capable of greater ground clearance is required.
The trouble with the Hawk 289 when fitted with an MGB axle is that it is almost impossible to design an exhaust system which gives better clearance. The factory system exhausts at the rear of the car and negotiates the back axle by going underneath it. It's not easily possible to negotiate the back axle by going over the top because of the proximity of the top chassis rail. It's also not possible to route the exhaust system to the outside of the car underneath the axle since that is where the greatest movement occurs. And having the system directly underneath the differential puts the system most at risk, right in the centre of the car just where the camber on most off-road tracks is the worst. In addition, any solution needs to take account of the placement of the silencers which, as standard, sit below the spare wheel well just in front of the rear bumper.
In considering an alternate system I reached the following conclusions:

It is not necessary to negotiate the back axle at all. Even the SVA regulations appear to have nothing against exiting before the front axle.

I would quite like to place the silencers in a more authentic position under the seats.

Keeping to the standard Hawk pipe size of 2 1/8" OD (Outside Diameter) would be a problem because no-one manufactures bending machines capable of bending this diameter pipe. Apparently 2" and 2 1/4" OD pipe bending machines exist but not 2 1/8" OD. This is fortunate because the standard exhaust system has practically no bends in it at all! (exhaust pipe has a wall thickness of 1/16" so that 2 1/8" OD = 2" ID)

During my research for the ultimate solution I was fortunate to be able to visit Robin and Andrew Batt's palatial garage in which Andrew's 289 was jacked up having the final touches put to an exhaust system which had been locally fabricated. This exhaust system had some of the critical characteristics that I was looking for. It had silencer boxes located under the driver and passenger seats and whilst the exhaust system still exited to the rear I could see that it could easily be adapted to provide the desired solution. Andrew's 289 has a Jag back end so the fabricator had negotiated the exhaust system inside the rear wheel arch and out at the rear. As the silencer boxes had an offset outlet it would be perfectly possible for me to rotate the box, thereby placing the offset towards the outside of the car, missing the leaf spring and facilitating exiting just before the rear wheel.
In addition Andrew had solved the issue of flexible mounting by using Mini subframe mounting brackets and standard exhaust U bolts to fix the silencers to the chassis outriggers. This not only provided the flexible mounting that you need in an exhaust system but allowed the silencer position to be adjusted in all 3 planes so as to get it perfectly situated between the outriggers. Using mini subframe mounts is also fortuitous because Robin's company manufactures them. Hint…..Robin is a helpful source of these items at a fraction of the price of a main dealer!
I made two major changes to the silencers before fitting them. Firstly, using 45 degree angled pieces of pipe I was able to move the silencer box upwards so that the bottom of the box was at the same height as the bottom of the pipe. I also changed the diameter of the pipe from 2 1/8" OD to 2" OD. This may seem strange but this single act made it so much easier to find pipe and fittings to complete the assembly.
The silencers are flat oval type and were sourced from Real Steel at a very reasonable price of £24.89 each. They are particularly useful because at 14" long the boxes themselves will fit in between the Hawk outriggers which are 21" apart.
Once fitted I found that the complete system was unbelievably quiet, had an increased ground clearance of between 1/2" and 1", and was arguably more authentic having the silencers in the "right" place. In addition having the silencer boxes located away from the centre of the car made ground clearance less of an issue. Of course, having built the system it is also easier to maintain it and this is doubly so because the parts used are pretty standard. Apart from the small but necessary modifications to the silencers all parts are off the shelf. After fitting the system I had the engine re-dyno tested and it appears that I now have an extra 20-25bhp to play with. It seems that decreasing the exhaust diameter from 2" ID to 1 7/8" ID had nothing but a beneficial effect. Finally, the cost of the entire system was a very favourable £250.

I list below the items required and some diagrams and photos of the system which might be of interest. I should stress that this article describes how I did it. If you want to do the same you should ensure that the parts are applicable and will fit as intended. I must say I am very happy with the system and glad that I don't have to worry at all about bottoming out even in Corsica!

Parts suggested 2 x Hedman Hedders Turbo Mufflers P/N BY25560 2" ID inlet/outlet - from Real Steel, total cost £58 delivered. 2 x 500mm flexible exhaust tube P/N U055150 2" ID - from Demon Tweeks total cost £44.20 + delivery. 4 x 54mm exhaust clamps @ £1.19 each 4 x 57mm exhaust clamps @ £1.19 each 8 x Mini sub frame mounts - see Robin Batt, say £25 2 x 60 degree bends from Demon Tweeks, say £13 1 tube exhaust putty, say £4 1 can exhaust paint, say £4 1 metre 2" OD 16 gauge mild steel tube, say £10 Cut and weld tube to exhaust boxes, say £30 Aluminised heat resistant cloth to protect the floorpan, say £50 Spay adhesive for heat resistant cloth, say £5 (Use original Hawk L bends to connect to exhaust headers) Total cost approximately £250 + exhaust trims

Pictures of Andrew Batt's system

Pictures of the Pilbeam variant!

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Attention All Kitcar Owners Clubs
by Steve Hole
Announcing the exciting new independent kitcar web magazine…

…………………www.totalkitcar.com……………………
Edited by Steve Hole http://www.totalkitcar.com/ will be the ultimate internet source for all things specialist car related…………… ALL the news as it happens, manufacturer listings, road-tests, all show dates, track-day information, club lists, in fact you’ll find it ALL at http://www.totalkitcar.com/ …………… with regular updates.

http://www.totalkitcar.com/ will quickly become an essential part of your strategy, so please help us to help you by keeping us informed of all your new developments so that we can keep our news pages and the automotive surfing public (your potential members of course) fully updated.

We will be automatically providing a link to your website so that our readers can get straight to your site, effortlessly and without fuss…… as more and more people are doing……. Proof indeed, if proof is needed of the power of the web.

We will be the place on the internet for independent kitcar information and we’ll report things fairly and as we see them, without prejudice. If there’s a show we’ll tell you about it, if there’s an interesting new product that might be of use to your members, we’ll let you know about it. Please remember that we can only keep your club’s entry updated if YOU tell us the correct information.

We launch Weds 19^th December 2001. See you there.
PLEASE ADVISE YOUR MEMBERS AND IF POSSIBLE INCLUDE US IN YOUR NEXT MAGAZINE. THANK YOU.

Regards

Steve Hole.

Contact details: - 52 Sunnybank, Warlingham, Surrey CR6 9SS
e-mail: steve_h@sportscar.fsbusiness.co.uk (All news ASAP please)
Tel: 0044-1883-372 085
Fax: 0044-1883-624 964
Mobile: 0044-7799-644 895


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Get Switched On and Lit Up
by Gerry Hawkridge
Some new interesting bits now available from Stafford Vehicle components!!

  
Builders of 50’s and 60’s replicas will be delighted to know that the old "Lucas" style rotary 3 or 4 position switch, which has an octagonal shaft to accept those lovely period knobs is at long last available again. If demand is high enough, S.V.C. will even get the original type round slotted retaining nuts made to suit. These switches were fitted to many old sports cars, including of course many of the Cobras. Price around £15, including the dreaded vodka and tonic.

Also now available from S.V.C. in conjunction with Hawk Cars Ltd. are the lovely old style warning lights.

  
These are available in the two different sizes, with correct bezels and various colour lenses. Once again, these were fitted to Cobras as well as many other nice old sports cars. Small ones around £8-50 each, the larger ones about £16-50 each.

  
I also spotted some very useful little male spade connectors whilst visiting Steve at S.V.C., which among other things, would be ideal for earthing jobs (remember, most electrical problems are usually traced back to poor earthing, so always make sure surfaces are nice and clean in such areas). They are available in a couple of different patterns, and a handful of these would be invaluable in the Kit Car builders tool box . At only £2-50 for a small assorted pack, including post and packing it is worth giving Steve a call to order a handful (and if you haven’t got one, get them to send you a little in-line fuse, at the same time, to use when you are testing things like your wiper set up !!!) S.V.C. are on 0044-1827-67714 and say we sent you !


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All Wiped Out
by Gerry Hawkridge
Wiper Systems.
We have had some readers seeking advice on wiper systems again recently, so we thought we would do another small piece on the subject.

1.Wiper Motor.
The most popular is the Lucas 14 W. Lucas did make a 16 W, but this was used only on Stags and Scimitars etc., this one has now been dropped from the range, but the 14 .does suit most applications.

2. Gear.
When the new motor arrives, there is no internal gear. There are several gears to fit this motor, starting with the number 95 which is stamped on the top round plate. This is giving the least amount of travel to the rack, and the most travel gear is 130. The gear ratios go up in 5's, so starting with 95, 100, 105, and so on. On the top of the gear plate where the number is stamped, there is a drive peg, welded in position. This is the only item which changes position throughout all the gears, (e.g. welded in different positions on the top plate.) Obviously, if this peg was welded to the centre of the plate, there would be no travel at all, so the further the peg is positioned to the outer edge of the plate, the more travel you get. With each gear, come 2 washers and a circlip. The wavy washer goes onto the shaft, before inserting into the motor body. The flat washer goes onto the outside of the shaft, when passed through the housing and the circlip retains the gear into the motor body, always pack it with grease in the gear area, before refitting the top cover.

3.Wheel Boxes.
The most popular wheel box size is 32 teeth on the inner drive wheel, and the ideal length of shaft from the inner face to the end of the splines is 2.5 inches. This allows for the thickness of material on fibre glass cars, as the first spacer can be cut down in size, allowing for varying thicknesses through the bulkhead where the wheel boxes fit. There is also a 40 tooth wheel box, which will reduce the amount of travel. Some cars, such as Ferrari Daytona replicas, or split screen types used what was called the clapped hands system. This is easily done by turning one of the wheel boxes through 180 degrees, so that the rack passes over one of the gears in one of the wheelboxes, and under the gear in the other wheelbox.

4.Rack.
When fitting a new system, it is advisable to fit a new drive rack, as this is one of the items that wears, resulting in the wiper arms having too much play, and being noisy. Racks can be obtained in different lengths and can be cut down if necessary using a grinder or cutting disc.

5. Bundy Tubing Sets.
It is far better to use the recommended wiper tubing from Lucas, than to use copper tube, as this can be noisy and wears quickly on any bends. The ends of the bundy tube need to be properly flared in order to locate properly in the wheel boxes, and you will require the correct sleeve nut for attaching to the motor housing.
Bundy tube sets can be made up, providing you give the supplier 2 dimensions. The first is the distance between the wheelbox centres through the bodywork, the second is the distance from the motor to the centre of the first wheel box hole (obviously, if it is a three wiper system, then there is another dimension needed). Keep the routing of the rack and tubing as smooth and straight as possible, try to avoid sharp bends in the tubing. An easy way to form the shape, is to insert the drive rack into the tube before bending, this will help to keep the tube the correct diameter on any bends, very much like a plumber bends copper piping by inserting a spring inside the pipe first. Always grease the rack well, when inserting it into the bundy tube, before finally assembling the system.

6. Switch.
It is very important that you use a correct wiper 2-speed switch.(Lucas wiper switch. part no. 35927). Or if using one from a different application, then it is essential that you check from suppliers, or car manufacturers wiring diagram. The reason for this is, that when the switch is in the off position, with the ignition switched on, there is one connection, which becomes live. This operates the parking position. If you use a non-live switch, then the wipers would stop, wherever the switch was switched off. It is now an S.V.A. requirement that the wipers self park, clear of your view through the windscreen. If you use the wrong switch, then you are likely to have all sorts of problems, including constantly blowing fuses!!

  

It is also important to make sure the wipers park in the right place, on the correct side of the car, on a Cobra replica, for example, they should park in front of the driver, otherwise in operation, they will not fully clear the screen, and when parked would cause a blind spot in the centre of the screen. The motor can be set to park with either the rack in it's extended position, or with it fully retracted. We have made up a simple test loom, which we connect to a battery, (with an in-line fuse, of course) and simply plug into the motor to test which way it is set to park, before fitting it into the vehicle.

  If you need to change the position in which the motor parks, it is very simple. You simply remove the cover over the gear, and having removed the rack from the peg, and having removed the circlip which retains the shaft of the gear, without losing any washers, simply withdraw the gear. On the reverse of the gear is a small plastic "ramp" which "plugs" into two small holes, this operates a micro switch, to control the park position. If you look carefully, you will notice two more small holes on the other side of the gear, 180 degrees around. Simply reposition the ramp by plugging it into these alternative holes.

N.B. Routing the rack either over or under the gears in the wheelboxes, also changes the park position.
Always make sure you use the correct base pad and strap with the rubber covering, make sure the motor is not touching any part of the vehicle body in order to eliminate any unnecessary noise. If purchasing a second-hand motor, make sure that there are 3 wires going into the body. This is the way to tell if the motor is 2 speed, if it only has 2 wires it is single speed.

Thanks to Tony Stafford for his help with some of this information. Stafford Vehicle Components (0044-1827-67714) can supply any of these parts, should you have difficulties, and will happily make up bundy tube sets to your requirements. Give them a call if you need any advice.


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Stylish Gear
by Gerry Hawkridge

We now can supply a nice new replica gear lever for use on 289 or 427 Cobra replica kits.

They are engineered beautifully in stainless steel, they have the lift mechanism, that actually moves up and down just like the original. They come in a highly polished finish and being stainless steel, there is no chrome to wear off from over-use of the lift up mechanism. The one in the pictures is for a Tremec or T5 in a 289 car. We can offer versions for Rover gearboxes, and a longer cranked version for use on 427 replicas. Retail price £78 + vat. Trade enquiries welcome.

  

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351 into 289 does go!
by John Abel
Before I start explaining how to fit a 351 Windsor into a Hawk 289, you need to know why I chose this engine. Well, it went along the lines of "One Day…" when visiting North American Motor Company in Fleet asking about engines, they said what about a Ford 351W which was laying on the side of the workshop. Well a quick phone call to Gerry, which ended up "… isn’t it worth a try for £300". So that is how I came to decide on a 351W. So how did it go, well the following is notes on how the process went and some slight changes to the standard installation.

The following are some general notes on the differences between the 351W and 302 Ford engines (Note some differences can be found in different years, mine is a 74’).

The engine is part of 289, 302 as it is a 90-degree engine.

The block is 1 inch wider on each side to give the crank and pistons room for the extra ½ inch of stroke over the 302.

Engine height is 1 inch taller than the 302.

The firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, where the 302 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

Also, something else which is very important for SVA, I had to prove that the engine is a 351W and a 1974, this can be done, by looking at the casting number which is above the starter motor (looking from the gearbox end, right side).
Mine is D4AE-6015-AA5, which means it was from a 1974, Galaxie. How did I do this well, below is the method of working out the engine age and other details.

First Character is the Decade (A - 1940, B - 1950, C - 1960, D - 1970 and E - 1980)
Second Character is the Year (e.g. D4 for 1974).
Third Character is Car Line ( A - Galaxie)
Fourth Character is the Engineering Department ( E- Engine).

You can read more on this at www.pacificnet.net/~fastoso/castingcode.html

Now onto the engine fitting, the following are the changes that are required to fit a 351 Windsor Engine.

1. The Engine will not fit if, no air scoop which is OK for a Le Mans / FIA Hawk as the height is greater.
2. The B&W T5 Gearbox is further back and the bottom of the gearbox needs to be cut away.
3. Smaller Starter Motor as the outlet Manifold (e.g. block hugger) will not clear the back of the starter motor.
4. Smaller Oil filter as the passenger side block hugger will hit.
5. As the engine is further back a large gearbox mounting so the gearbox will miss the main chassis member.
6. The block hugger will need to be bent (e.g. cut and welded) on the drivers side to miss the chassis.

Below is a picture of the engine fitted to the Hawk;

The Engine fits really well in the bay without hitting anything that would cause the SVA an issue. As can be seen the engine bay has aluminum fitted (another article!).

Anyway, if anyone else is trying this, then just email me questions or request for more pictures john_abel289@hotmail.com

John - you beat me my two weeks to securing http://www.cobra289.com/ for the "289 Register" - do you want to swap it for http://www.289cobra.com/ ? - Dave & Andrea Butcher


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"Cobra, The Real Thing" - Trevor Legate
Book Offer from Terry Wills
In case you do not already have a copy of Trevor Legate’s superb book "COBRA, THE REAL THING", Terry Wills has a special offer on this item. These are 'seconds' that he bought direct from the publisher, and he has sold a few copies through http://www.ebay.co.uk/ Internet auctions at prices around £14 - £16 (which is well below the £25 new price). Postage within the UK or to Germany will add about £4 to this price.

If you are interested, please contact Terry directly - either via e-mail mailto:twills@breathemail.net or at

HERTSGROVE,
WANSWELL,
BERKELEY,
GLOS. GL13 9RR
UNITED KINGDOM
Tel./Fax 0044-1453-811 819

but please don't forget to quote the "289 Register" to be certain of getting the book at this price.

And yes, I’m one of those that paid £45 for this book several years ago - but it is worth every penny!


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Del Boy's page - Regalia
by Paul Alexander

Item	Show Price	Mail Order
Baseball caps - all one size (black with gold embroidery)	£6.00	£7.50
T-shirts (XL) (grey with logo screen printed on rear)	£8.00	£10.00
Polo shirts (L / XL) (black with gold embroidery)	£15.00	£17.00
Sweatshirts (black with gold embroidery)	£17.00	£20.00

Give me a call or write, cheques with order, please.


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New Products
Hydraulic clutch conversion for Ford 302 / T5 or Tremec gearbox.
Engineered properly with external Girling alloy slave cylinder. Includes forks, cyclinder, adjustable push rod, mounting bracket, spring, nuts bolts washers etc. £167.50 + VAT.

Sump temperature sender boss.
Requires NO welding. Simply drill a 3/4" hole in a suitable location the side of the sump. Accepts Smiths sender unit.

Accelerator pedal.
Cast in LM25 aluminium and heat treated, adjustable blade. As original fitted to real Cobras! £129 + VAT.

Rover SD1 gearbox rubber mountings to CORRECT specification.
Rubber mountings of correct spec are impossible to get hold of. Current alternatives are smaller and can cause clearance problems. Genuine part price is at least £18.50.
Hawk Cars are having a batch made to correct spec but they will need to have quite a large number made up.
Hawk Cars are offering Register members a special deal for advance orders. They are available at a special price of £8.25 each for a block order through the club. Normal retail will be almost double that.

New MGB rear axle telescopic conversion kit. Includes brackets and all fittings plus Spax adjustable dampers. Designed and tested by "Lead Foot" Fry. Dump those old lever arms and prepare yourself for a more controlled ride. An absolute steal at £158.50 + VAT.

New gearbox selector shaft oil seal kit - solves SD1 oil leaks. Designed by "Lead Foot" Fry.
£14.95 inc. + postage.

New prop-shaft hoop for both Jag and MGB rear ends. Protect yourself in the event of a breakage. £48 +VAT.

New original looking choke cables. C engraved in white on black plastic.

Contact Hawk Cars - +44-1892-750341

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Rear disc brake conversion
Designed especially for the Hawk chassis and MGB wire wheel axle. Uses existing Hawk handbrake mechanism and Ford single piston floating caliper. Easy fitting, direct replacement, no welding. From £310

Contact David Pilbeam - 0044-1403-731091 evenings and weekends only

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For Sale
Rover SD1 V8 5 speed gearbox
including bell housing, flywheel and clutch. £395
Headers (new)
for Hawk / Rover V8. £100
John Wood, tel: 0044-1323-893178 (Seaford, East Sussex)

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Rover P5/6 parts
a) Very early block rebored to 020, reasonable condition - SVA smoke test only!
b) Crankshaft 020 reasonable condition
c) Heads, con rods etc
d) Knackered standard pistons (free to a good home)
e) Distributor, timing cover
Holley 370 4 barrel Carb
Lightly roasted. Needs new plastic bits and possibly new electric choke, however definately repairable. £50.
Call for details.
Charles Fox, tel: 0044-1264-850259 or Email: charles.fox@coreis.co.uk

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Hardtops to clear (mouldings only). £250
Hawk 'A' frame covers and door panels in magnolia leather. £100 to clear
Set of 4 x 15" 5½J wire wheels suitable for an Ace 1.8/2.6 with used tyres. Ideal for slave wheels, spares or refurbishing if on a tight budget. £100
Contact Hawk Cars, tel: 0044-1892-750341 (East Sussex)

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5 painted wire wheels
From a 1972 MGB GT, and 165 R14 tyres, splines in good condition, £100.
John Coward, tel: 0044-7973-153358 (Beckenham)

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Solex Stromberg carbs
On Range Rover inlet manifold and new K&N filters.
Contact Peter Lee, tel: 0044-1732-700272 (Edenbridge)

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Rover V8 engine, number prefix 11A gives its age as an ex 3500SE unit.
Was bought as working unit but not used. Rocker gear/covers, sump and front cover removed to put onto new 4.6. Sensible offers.

Hella Immobiliser as required for SVA test and supplied by Hawk Cars. Isolates 3 circuits for added security. Dashboard plug in electronic key switch. Fitted briefly [without shortening the wires] for SVA test and now swapped for full Cat 1 alarm. Complete with box and fitting instructions. £45
Reply to Peter Coombes, tel: 0044-1483-531051 (Guildford) or Email: Peter.Coombes@NEU-NEL.com

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289 front nudge bar
Stainless steel, unused, £85 inc. UK delivery
Paul Stannard, email: tasmin.289@ntlworld.com

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Rear leaf springs, unused
pair Chat 20s
pair MGB competition 1" lowered
sensible offers.
Paul Alexander, tel: 0044-1273-562727 (Brighton)


Return to CONTENTS at top of page

Cars For Sale
Joe Noble's beautiful Hawk AC Ace
Owner and builder sadly deceased.
Built over past 5 years to a very high standard. Recently sprayed by Sovereign Coachworks in Sapphire Blue.
All brightwork new and in boxes. Requires screen and brightwork replacing following re-spray, and trimming.
Pre-SVA example with correct registration and historic status, so exempt from road tax.
Hardly used due to illness but complete, 40 miles on the clock.
Fitted with Triumph 2500 6 cylinder lump.
Currently stored and can be viewed at Sovereign Coachworks in Hastings.
Must go to a good home where Joe's work will be driven and enjoyed.
Offers to £15,000.
Mrs Noble tel: 0044-1689-855528 - work hours (Surrey)

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Hawk 289, Graphite metallic grey, Ford 302 engine, Toyota Supra 5 Speed gearbox, Moss vented front discs with 4 pot calipers, Jaguar IRS, Chrome wires, Pirelli P4000 205/70 tyres, leather trim, full weather gear, bulkhead/footwells covered in stainless steel. £22,000. Contact Philip Pallot tel: 0044-1249-720444 (Wiltshire, England)

Further details and photos under www.289register.com/pallote.html

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Hawk 289, Built 1996/97 - now completed 12,500 trouble free miles. Rover 4 litre V8 by R.P.I, Holley 4 barrel carb, Offenhauser manifold [build spec available], oil cooler rad., auto gearbox (with touring in mind), MGB front end with ventilated discs & 4 pot callipers, dual braking system with Tilton balance bar, custom converted Jaguar Independent back end. Stainless steel throughout, all equipment to Gerry Hawkridges` specs., Dunlop wire wheels, very ample tread on tyres, unused spare wheel in boot, totally undersealed, weather proofed with sound insulation. Hood, sidescreens and tonneau cover supplied and fitted by Hawk Cars trimmer, windwings and sunscreens. Burgundy metallic paint, Biscuit leather interior with matching carpeting, black leather dash. John Tullett tel: 0044-1603-758120 (Norfolk)

Further details and photos under www.289register.com/tullette.html


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Wanted
Mechanical to Electrical Connector
from Rover gearbox to electronic speedometer (as supplied by Gerry)
Richard Quirk, Email: richard.quirk@baesystems.com

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Rover SD1 sump and distributor.
Charles Fox, tel: 01264 850259 or Email: charles.fox@coreis.co.uk

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Hawk 289 or FIA with short block Ford
Abandoned or completed project.
Stuart Gilbert, tel: 0044-1795-843116 (Sittingbourne)

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2 eared MGB wheel spinners, 1 off LH and 1 off RH for use with spare wire wheel only. Must be serviceable.
Peter Coombes, tel: 0044-1483-531051 (Guildford) or Email: Peter.Coombes@NEU-NEL.com

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Hawk 289
Completed car with V8 power, £15,000+
Eddie Jackson, tel: 0044-1273-298898 (Brighton) or mob: 0044-7973-343520

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1. Rover V8 wanted (any size) for Hawk 289 build.
2. LT77 transmission wanted for Rover V8, preferably to include bell housing and gear selector.
Dave Woodward, tel. 0044-7973-269748 or Email: dave@dwoodwar.demon.co.uk>


Return to CONTENTS at top of page

Assorted E-Mails

Subj:	Technical tips
Date:	27/09/2001 17:18:46 GMT Daylight Time
From:	mailto:peter.coombes@neu-international.com
To:	mailto:DWPilbeam@aol.com

Having just had my Cobra put on the rolling road at Progress Engineering [ previously Discovery and Rovercraft ] and had quite a few extra horses liberated (they suggest a conservative 271 BHP and its certainly a lot more crisp than before the tune), I gained the following info which may be of interest.

Rover Engines
These run to a max of 28 degrees of ignition advance at around 5500 rpm. Whilst a safe setting of 6 degrees static is OK it is better to set the 28 and work back. With my Land Rover Discovery distributor this worked out at 12 degrees at tick over ! Quite a difference! Obviously this will vary for each design of dizzy. The engine is now quite lively compared to the initial running in settings.

General
If you run with the vacuum advance connected then you should have a vacuum delay in the pipeline to the carb. When throttling off going into a bend you give the dizzy a lot of vacuum such that as you re-plant your foot on the throttle you have bags too much ignition advance which either bogs the engine down or may even make it pink. The vacuum delay reduces this. Rover part number P/LERC6997 at £14.68 + vat, I’m told comes off an early Land Rover Discovery with carburettors. For reference it’s about the size of a cotton reel with one end orange and fits easily into the rubber vacuum pipe and is marked which end goes to carb and which to dizzy. It obviously has a non return valve in favour of the dizzy and small bleed hole for the carb to suck through thereby slowing the whole process.

For this same reason when doing track days they [Progress Engineering] recommend disconnecting the vacuum all together. Don’t forget to block the pipe into the carb otherwise it will be running lean. If it wasn’t for emissions they would recommend leaving off the vac advance all together.

Because they had built my engine and know the cam etc they knew what readings to expect so the tune up was simple matter of straight forward adjustments. For an hour on the rollers costing £49 + vat, I thought it money well spent.

======================

Peter Coombes
NEU International Ltd
Tel: +44(0)1483 756565
Fax: +44(0)1483 755177

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Subj:	289 Banner
Date:	17/12/2001 11:13:04 GMT Standard Time
From:	(Pallot, Philip Jeffrey (Phil))
To:	('Dave Pilbeam')

Dave
Today I have sent you the Club banner we used at Exeter..
Many thanks.

When we talked you mentioned you had a spare set of green disc pads. If they are still available I would be pleased to purchase them from you. - just let me know how much and I'll forward a cheque.

For info, I was one of the unfortunate people who went with a Moss front suspension (coil over shocker) conversion. After only a few thousand miles the shockers leaked and were clearly not up to the job. I went to Moss Europe in Bristol and complained like hell. The current senior management view was that they were not responsible, as the previous owners of Moss were responsible for the now discontinued conversion kit. Thanks to the sales guys (who had a conscience) I received a free set of stronger? shockers to a different spec. If you know anyone in a similar position please let them know, but of course tell them to tread carefully, as the official Moss Mgt line is that they are not responsible for these useless kits. Its a waste of time to go to the directors of the company!!!.
Regards
Phil

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----- Original Message -----

From:	Charles Fox
To:	mailto:gerry@hawkcars.co.uk
Sent:	Thursday, February 07, 2002 11:01 AM
Subject:	Brake problems solved

Hi Gerry,
Remember that problem I had with my handbrake, Moss were saying there are 3 different lengths of levers? Well, I've sorted it all out now.

There are 3 different hub pull on levels listed by MGB, however the new ones you buy today fit all models. The reason my handbrake would not stay powerful was because the hubs had been skimmed to the wrong tolerance limit. Once I put some brand new hubs on the handbrake started to work perfectly. I now get 200kg of force on each wheel according to the local garage.

The other problem I had with air was due to the rear master cylinder going flaky - easily sorted with that replacement one you sent me.

So all is well - thanks for your help. SVA in a couple of weeks.

For info, below are the brake forces I'm getting. The front pads are EBC Greens, rears standard Mintex, no servo. Under heavy braking none of the wheels lock and it stops pretty well for a 1967 roadgoing vehicle. I think the front readings will rise to about 225 when they are warmed up a bit and it's not p****** down. These readings were taken on a very wet cold day after a 200 yard drive!

Front left 200, right 210
Rear left 165, right 160
Handbrake left 200, right 190

Regards, Charles Fox

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----- Original Message -----

From:	John Abel
To:	mailto:gerry@hawkcars.co.uk
Sent:	Friday, February 22, 2002 8:01 AM
Subject:	May be interesting

Gerry,

I hope all is well, while I was digging around in a US Cobra Web Site, found a bunch of Yanks complaining about Mr Shelby again. He seems to have filled a copywrite on the FIA 289

Details Below :

Word Mark FIA 289
Goods and Services IC 012. US 019 021 023 031 035 044. G & S:
AUTOMOBILES AND AUTOMOBILE STRUCTURAL PARTS
Mark Drawing Code (1) TYPED DRAWING
Serial Number 75453027
Filing Date March 19, 1998
Filed ITU FILED AS ITU
Owner (APPLICANT) SHELBY, CARROLL DBA SHELBY AMERICAN MANAGEMENT
INDIVIDUAL UNITED STATES 19020
ANELO AVENUE GARDENA CALIFORNIA 90248
Assignment Recorded ASSIGNMENT RECORDED
Attorney of Record EDWARD A SOKOLSKI
Type of Mark TRADEMARK
Register PRINCIPAL
Live/Dead Indicator LIVE

Anyway if you go to http://tess.uspto.gov/bin/gate.exe?f=tess&state=ko51gk.1.1, you can search on Trademarks in the US.

I know this does not effect UK law, but worth noting.

Kind Regards

John.

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----- Original Message -----

From:	mailto:LovellGL@aol.com
To:	mailto:DWPilbeam@aol.com
Sent:	Friday, February 22, 2002 12:33 AM
Subject:	(no subject)

Hi, Dave !

I just read that A C Cars is trying to cause trouble with various cobra replica manufacturers by attempting to copyright the shape of the cobra. I presume that this is directed at DAX, and other manufacturers of the 427 cobra at this time. This upsets me. Just how serious is this?
I am still "dreaming" of a 289 Hawk and would not like to see that option denied me, or anyone else. I'd appreciate a brief reply to my question.
Just today I managed to get the 289 Registry to scroll past the home page and finally see your car. I don't know what my problem was--. It is an interesting site. I wanted to place my order today. I always come back to the thought I'd better order everything at once due to shipping costs.

Thank You !

Gary Lovell

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----- Original Message -----

From:	mailto:allan.tunstall@btinternet.com
To:	mailto:DWPilbeam@aol.com
Sent:	Monday, March 18, 2002 7:30 PM
Subject:	The gizmo arrived today ....

I have a technical tip ! Blue Tac. When you need three hands and cannot reach that nut to hold it in place a great big lump of Blue Tac will hold the nut in place while you bury your head wherever to tighten the bolt!
I have taken out shares in blue tac in anticipation of this tip becoming widely known!

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----- Original Message -----

From:	mailto:graham.bates@bmeurope.com
To:	mailto:DWPilbeam@aol.com
Sent:	Wednesday , April 10, 2002 3:14 PM

David,

I had previously told you that I collect Cobra models of all sizes and types (200+ and growing) and you had agreed that there were very few decent 289 models available (other than in my opinion the Marsh 1/43 die casts, of which I have all of the 289's produced, and the AMT 1/25th plastic kits, only one of which I still have to acquire !)

Hopefully EXOTO, who produce brilliant Daytona Coupes, have taken my (and no doubt others comments) and are now producing other non 427 Cobra models in 1/18th scale. They have not got round to the 289's yet but are getting there, take a look at the latest models they are just putting out: http://www.exoto.com/Cashier/index.asp?display=Catalog/Catalog.asp&Model1=50

I saw something about these models in the latest Classic and Sports Car magazine, but I do not believe these models are available on the UK market yet.

I will let you know when I get my hands on one from the USA, I think the driving school version looks best, or maybe the original aluminium one ? or the custom one, ? choices ! choices !

When is the next organised 289 get together, other than Zolder that you didn't sound hopeful about getting to? I am back on the road again after getting the oil temp gauge fitted and working, not a big job but it did take the car off the road for a while.

Graham


Return to CONTENTS at top of page

Events for 2002
The shows and meetings sections have been combined in order to provide greater clarity.
Shows are listed as a matter of information only as we realise attendance is a matter of personal choice and convenience.
Show entries in bold are those where the Register intends to have a significant presence or where we may be doing something special. 289 Register meetings and events are also shown in bold.
For more show information contact John "Cookie" Cooke.
For meetings and club events information contact Graham "Lead Foot" Fry.

For those of you with Internet access, stay updated with http://www.totalkitcar.com/, http://www.kitcar-shows.co.uk/ and http://www.car-shows.co.uk/

May 5th & 6th Sunday & Monday	National Kitcar Motor Show Royal Agricultural Showground, Stoneleigh, Warwickshire Info: 0044-1775-712 100 / 722 900
May 11th & 12th weekend	Sports Car Show NEC Birmingham West Midlands
May 17th Friday	Coys Légende et Passion Auction Monaco Monte Carlo
May 18th & 19th weekend	3rd Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Monte Carlo
May 19th Sunday	Cheshire Kit Car Show Capestone Hall, Macclesfield, Cheshire
May 25th & 26th weekend	MG Car Club British Sports Car Weekend Rockingham Motor Speedway, Corby Weekend Tickets are £12 Booking: 0044-8700-134044 / http://www.rockingham.co.uk/
June 1st & 2nd weekend	British Sportscar Festival Brooklands Museum, Weybridge, Surrey Info: 0044-1737-225857 / http://www.limelight-exhibitions.co.uk/
June 2nd & 3rd Sunday & Monday	Golden Jubilee Festival of Transport Great Yorkshire Showground, Harrogate Info: 0044-1273-836050
June 9th Sunday	London to Brighton Kit Car Run Crystal Palace, Penge, South London
June 15th & 16th weekend	The Alternative and Kit Car Show Newark & Notts Showground, Newark-on-Trent, Notts. Info: 0044-1526-320721
June 15th & 16th weekend	24 Heures du Mans Le Mans, France
June 29th Saturday	Track Day Colerne Airfield, Wiltshire Info: 0044-1737-225857 / http://www.limelight-exhibitions.co.uk/
July 7th Sunday	British Sportscar Day Shuttleworth
July 12th - 14th Friday - Sunday	Centenary Commemoration Circuit des Ardennes Category F - cars from 1941 to 1977 Bastogne, Belgium Info: 0032-2-640-5762 (Tel.) / -8482 (Fax)
July 12th - 14th Friday - Sunday	Goodwood Festival of Speed Goodwood, Sussex
July 19th Friday	Track Day Hullavington Airfield, Wiltshire Info: 0044-1737-225857 / http://www.limelight-exhibitions.co.uk/
July 29th Monday	Best of British Specialist Cars Trackday Silverstone Info: Marcus Thomas, Easytrack / http://www.easytrack.co.uk/
August 9th - 11th Friday - Sunday	Nürburgring OldTimer Grand Prix Nürburg, Germany
August 26th Monday	Wotton Fete Dorking, Surrey Info: 0044-1306-886220
September 6th - 8th Friday - Sunday	Goodwood Revival Meeting Goodwood, Sussex
September 7th & 8th weekend	Autohappening (Oracle Cars), Zolder, Belgium
September 14th & 15th weekend	National Kit & Performance Car Show Donington Exhibition Centre, Donington Park, Castle Donington, Derby Info: 0044-1737-225857
September 21st & 22nd weekend	Le Mans Classic Le Sarthe, France Info: 0033-1-4259-7340 (Tel.) / -4828 (Fax)
September 21st - 25th Saturday - Wednesday	Targa-Liege 2002 Palace Royale Hotel, Spa, Belgium - Florence, Italy Info: Guild of Motor Endurance, 0044-1386-45556 (between 7pm & 10pm) / http://www.targaliege.com/
October 12th Saturday	Track Day Goodwood, Sussex Info: 0044-1737-225857 / http://www.limelight-exhibitions.co.uk/
October - TBA weekend	Autotron Kit Car, Replica & Oldtimer Show Rosmalen, Holland
November 16th & 17th weekend	Great Western Kit and Sports Car Show Westpoint Exhibition Centre, Exeter, Devon Info: 0044-1233-713878

Return to CONTENTS at top of page

Nürburgring 2002 - OldTimer Grand Prix
by Nigel Brackenbury
Be honest. This year would you like to find a way to:

Watch genuine Cobras racing door to door with GT40’s, E-Types, and TVR Griffiths? Or watching Lotus Cortinas do battle alongside Mustangs, Mini-Coopers and Jag Mark 2s? Or watching some of the classic F1 cars from the 50s, 60’s and 70’s (and earlier) race at full tilt around the track?

Take your own car onto the old Nürburgring "Nordschleife" circuit just for the fun of it? No speed limits, and no traffic coming the other way, just Armco, crazy motorcyclists and some brilliant and some very scary corners to contend with.

Have fun driving some of the best roads in Europe in the Eifel mountains, where the Nürburgring circuit is located?

Spend a few hours visiting the club stands of Lotus, Ferarri, Maserati, Jaguar…….

Join up with around 100 members of the German CRC for the weekend and who guarantee you a warm welcome, great food and drink to go with it at very reasonable prices.

Well dream no more. This year the OldTimer Grand Prix at the Nürburgring, one of the most popular meets at this classic European track, will take place on Friday through Sunday August 9/10/11. Put it in your diary now.

Living in Germany and actually just up the road (well 45 minutes drive from the track), I was fortunate to be able to get along last year and can honestly say this was the best event I did all year - I was also fortunate to be able to get to Le Mans (wet but great camaraderie from, and thanks to the UK CRC Southern Region), the European Cobra meet at Leystad in the Netherlands (thanks to the 289 Register and brilliant organisation, great entertainment and thanks to the Dutch CRC) and the excellent Dutch Castle weekend in Belgium (thanks again to organisation and hospitality of the Dutch CRC). All were different and great fun, but the OldTimer really took the biscuit for me.

So lets go through the reasons that make this the event not to be missed:

The event
The event takes place over three days and includes many races each of which lasts between 30 minutes and an hour covering every formula you can reasonably conceive that can take place on a tarmac surface. What this means in practice is that you can watch classic saloons from the 50’s and 60’s, sports cars from the 60’s and 70’s (including Cobras of course), F1s from many decades etc. The races are never long enough to get boring and you can pick and choose the ones you want to watch and entertain yourself elsewhere during the ones you don’t want to see.

The old Nürburgring track - the Nordschleife
You may or may not know but the original 22 kilometer (14 mile) Nüburgring track stopped being used for most serious forms of racing back in the mid-seventies after Nikki Lauda’s infamous accident. Since then racing (including most of the OldTimer Grand Prix) has been taking place predominantly on the much shorter but safer new circuit which is easy to watch and safer to drive on. However, the old circuit is open to the public - yes that’s right you and I, and of course everyone else. You just pay your 11 Euros (about £7) and off you go - no safety briefing, no car inspection and no crash helmets compulsory. This of course can be great fun…and deadly if you get it wrong as many bikers and several car drivers do each year. If you take it easy, especially the first time round, and keep your eyes on the road and your mirror (for bikes and mad nutters in basically anything fast enough to pass you - and there will be plenty) you can have the most fun you can get with your clothes on. Last year I went round during a break from watching the racing following Chris Cole from the Southern region in his Southern Roadcraft and I in my Unique Autocraft Python - we had a blast. The weather was sunny and it was brilliant. You can read just about everything there is to know about the ‘Ring on Ben Lovejoy’s brilliant website at www.nurburgring.org.uk/ in English, or you can try the official ‘Ring website on www.nuerburgring.de/eng/index_e.htm - English translation is available and they show times when the track is open to the public, along with details of the museum etc. If you are planning to come this year please note that the track will be open on the 8^th, 10^th and 11^th August but not the 9^th when an extended race (from the OldTimer Grand Prix for classic saloons) will be taking place on the old circuit - should be excellent to watch though!

The surrounding area - the Eifel mountains
Once you are at the ‘Ring you are truly blessed. It is located slap-bang in the middle of some of the best driving roads in Europe. It is likely that you will not want to spend all three days of the OldTimer at the track with your car parked in the German CRC enclosure. Instead get a good map and just head off, almost in any direction - into the Mosel or the Ahr valleys and pick up some wine from the many vineyards you will pass along the way. Visit some of the old towns with picturesque castles. Head east and cruise alongside the Rhine. Whatever you do you’ll have fun, guaranteed.

The German CRC hospitality and organisation
The German club is significantly smaller that that of the UK, but what they lack in numbers they make up for in the quality and attendance at this their premier event of the year. With around 350 members, last year they managed to get 91 cars to the club stand at this event - but what an organisation. Basically if you book with them in advance you get:

guaranteed parking (for about 10 Euros, about £6.25) for the three days in the club enclosure which was about 200 yards from the stands alongside the start line straight and first corner on the new circuit. This is also conveniently near to where all the stand are pitched from the vendors who attend the event selling everything you can think of to tempt money from your pocket

a discounted ticket to the event itself (can’t recall how much this was but it is not expensive)

cheap but excellent breakfast, lunch, evening BBQ and dance in the club marquee on the Saturday and breakfast and lunch on Sunday also for about 10 Euros (£6.25) each day.

camping in the club enclosure next to the cars (if you don’t fancy camping there are many affordable hotels and guesthouses in the areas all around the Eifel mountains. Try looking at: www.hocheifel-nuerburgring.de/ and making a few phone calls)

The Journey down to the ‘Ring
And the journey down to the ‘Ring can be fun too. It takes between four and six hours from Calais depending on how you drive and how much you stop - but the good news is that the roads get more fun the closer you get.

And the Rest
And of course every owners club you can think of gets a look in at the show, so if you want to go and browse round the other club enclosures you can. Last year the Lotus/Caterham 7 enclosure was next to the Cobras. Ferarris (all red of course), Maseratis and Jaguars were further away but still very accessible. There is an excellent museum at the track, terrific indoor and outdoor go-kart tracks (though the queues will be huge) and vendors selling everything from model cars, crash helmets, fireproof racing suits, electrical bits etc.

What Next?
Let’s assume you have decided to come to this event. Here’s what you need to:

Book holiday from work and ferry or tunnel crossing!

Let me know (phone on 0049-228-550-6700 or E-mail: nbracken@tronet.de and as soon as the German CRC publish the details of what they have planned for this year’s event I will let you know. They are due to be published at the beginning of April but I know from speaking with committee members it will be a very similar set up to 2001.

Decide on what type of accomdation you want - camping at the track in the club enclosure, or B&B/hotel. If the latter, you could do worse that start by doing your research on the website shown above.

Rumour has it that a possey from the Southern region of the CRC are already booked in for the event. I have spoken to the German CRC Committee and they would be delighted to see a strong UK contingent at the event and will extend the preferential terms they get to any who make it over here. Can’t say fairer than that.

Still not sure but have questions? Just drop me an e-mail or call and I will see what I can do to help. Otherwise, I look forward to seeing lots of you there!!

We first attended this event in 1988, and have returned EVERY year without exception since then - it is actually much better than Nigel’s description above of last years’ event, and easily beats the Silverstone Historic Festival or Le Mans. We have placed a brief report with a few photos of the last few years’ OGP on the "289 Register" web site - click on the links via the "Events" and "Past Events" pages. No prizes for guessing where we will be over the weekend of August 10^th & 11^th 2002 - although we book the club parking and discounted admission tickets through the German Lotus 7 club - they look up to, rather than down upon, 289s (unlike the German Cobra (427) Club - Nigel unfortunately only has a 427). Any 289s that can make it across are welcome to contact Nigel or ourselves for help in finding accommodation, securing tickets, etc. - Dave & Andrea Butcher


Return to CONTENTS at top of page

Next Newsletter
Due:
Summer 2002 (I’ll aim for early August at the printers, late August on your doormats)

Includes:
Report from Techno Classica, Essen, Germany (4th to 7th April 2002) - David Butcher
(Don’t) Get Lost - fitting a Blaupunkt Travelpilot RGS Navigation System to a 289 - David Butcher

Other Articles Wanted ….. PLEASE !!!

Deadline for Inclusion:
July 15^th 2002

Please send all Articles or Items either by
E-MAIL mailto:david@289register.com
or
POST (Praelat-Lewen-Strasse 30, 53819 Neunkirchen, Germany)

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