overheating

[Roger King]

Nowt to do with the fan. Pullers are more effective than pushers, slightly, but we're not talking fans here as they should not be part of the equation for your symptoms - i.e. sustained high speed temps creeping up (if I understand correctly). If your engine needs a cooling fan in these conditions the system design is at fault.
Possible causes of this:
Partial blockage or silting up of rad
Ditto block
Poor shrouding of radiator - air must be forced through it, or it'll go around the sides
Thermostat not opening fully
Lean state at high revs (but it would have to be pretty lean - unlikely with Holley/Edlebrock unless the tuner was properly asleep, they come jetted on the rich side)
Collapse of lower return hose to block (this is talked about a lot but I generally don't buy it, unless the hoses are really old and weak, long run, and a high-flow water pump is used - solution, replace all straight runs with metal pipe)
Radiator not large enough for application - the usual cause, I'm afraid! - unless it's a recent phenomenon and used to be OK.

I'd start with a new (maybe slightly lower temp) thermostat, and check the shrouding. You need to fill all gaps between rad and surrounding bodywork. New thermostat means nothing - when I completed my Mustang restoration, the first two brand new thermostats stuck open and stayed there (opposite problem from yours - but a 'too cool' engine is not good). I'm assuming parts are pretty new and block was properly de-rusted so no silting up is likely.

[Roger King]

Nowt to do with the fan. Pullers are more effective than pushers, slightly, but we're not talking fans here as they should not be part of the equation for your symptoms - i.e. sustained high speed temps creeping up (if I understand correctly). If your engine needs a cooling fan in these conditions the system design is at fault.
Possible causes of this:
Partial blockage or silting up of rad
Ditto block
Poor shrouding of radiator - air must be forced through it, or it'll go around the sides
Thermostat not opening fully
Lean state at high revs (but it would have to be pretty lean - unlikely with Holley/Edlebrock unless the tuner was properly asleep, they come jetted on the rich side)
Collapse of lower return hose to block (this is talked about a lot but I generally don't buy it, unless the hoses are really old and weak, long run, and a high-flow water pump is used - solution, replace all straight runs with metal pipe)
Radiator not large enough for application - the usual cause, I'm afraid! - unless it's a recent phenomenon and used to be OK.

I'd start with a new (maybe slightly lower temp) thermostat, and check the shrouding. You need to fill all gaps between rad and surrounding bodywork. New thermostat means nothing - when I completed my Mustang restoration, the first two brand new thermostats stuck open and stayed there (opposite problem from yours - but a 'too cool' engine is not good). I'm assuming parts are pretty new and block was properly de-rusted so no silting up is likely.

See what I did there?
Basically repeated everything everyone else has already said...

[Colin Newbold]

See what I did there?
Basically repeated everything everyone else has already said...

Yes Rog, but it's the fact that YOU wrote it

[allan horsfall]

Gentlemen,
Good news-Bad news-Good news-Bad news.

First the good news. I spent this weekend refabricating the ducting for the radiator. I used aluminium to create a funnel, directing the air at, and through the rad. it works a treat???
Bad news. On the way back from my test drive I could smell petrol. When I got home I could see petrol dripping from under the boot. On investigation, the rubber seal under the float on top of the tank had disintigrated. As I had just filled up with petrol, it was going everywhere.
Good news. Now I know what has been causing the S--t and derision in my fuel filter.
Bad news. Now I have to empty the fuel tank and take it out. A Bas---d job that involves trim, wiring, hoses,etc.

One day this car will be sorted, Ive made up my bloody mind.

Allan

[Roger King]

Nah, come on - that's all good news! ....ish
Glad the cooling's better. By 'float', do you mean the fuel gauge sender? The joint for that should not be rubber, it's usually cork.*
I keep banging on about this, and hopefully more people will join the cause - it's ethanol. Raised ethanol levels in fuel WILL dissolve rubber (and aluminium, and brass etc.), hence the crap getting into our carburettors. Write to your MP, your MEP, Chris Evans - don't care, just write to somebody! This has the potential to stuff our hobby in a way that unleaded petrol never would. There's no real answer to it for old cars. And it's political nonsense, born out of the yanks panicking over oil supplies. Ethanol is rubbish and it does no-one any good (except ethanol manufacturers). It's so unstable, they don't even add it to the petrol until the tanker's already full and ready to head out to the petrol stations. I could go on...
...ah, wine, that's better...


*you should be able to get a cork gasket from the usual classic car outlets, try Moss or even AH Spares. A thin smear of Blue Hylomar will help it stick, do not use Hermetite or Silicone.
No. 17 this diagram:
http://www.ahspares.co.uk/big-healey/Fu ... fault.aspx

[peter street]

Allan,

I recently replaced my fuel sender (with cork seal!) I too was expecting a b######d of a job having to disconnect all the fuel lines etc? however, I found after disconnecting the tank straps ( you need thin fingers to get at the bolts behind the seats!), the vent hose and the filler cap and hose, you can swing the tank towards you from the right hand side and gain easy access to the sender without having to disconnect all the fuel lines and pump. That is, if your pump and lines are on the left side!

Good luck

Peter

[andrewjw]

Having also had the experience of watching the temperature gauge wrap itself around the backstop both to and from Silverstone, I have at least found a possible reason.
On the principle of looking at the easiest and most obvious first I drained down and removed the thermostat. The piston pin which goes between the arched top and into the capsule had come completely out, jamming between the arch and the opening disc. I reckon that this would disable the action of the thermostat and the only circulation was via a small anti air lock hole I drilled in the rim. Sorry, but since the photo I have taken is only on my computer I cannot attach it to this reply. I have yet to road test the car since replacing the thermostat!

Andrew Warrington

[allan horsfall]

Hi Guy's,

Tank removed, new gasket fitted and all back together again. No sign yet of any leaks. I have to ask the question, why did they supply a rubber gasket with it anyway if it doesn't work???? Heating problem appears to be solved.

The only bad news item to deal with now, is my boat is stuck in Brest on its way to Greece because the auto pilot has disintegrated due to a crap installation job.
It only done 7 days sailing and now I have to replace it.
Should have done it myself in the first place. Now have to trust a French Yard and the crew to sort it, really wish I could be there!!

I think somebody up there's trying to tell me something!

Allan

[Roger King]

The only bad news item to deal with now, is my boat is stuck in Brest on its way to Greece because the auto pilot has disintegrated due to a crap installation job.
It only done 7 days sailing and now I have to replace it.

Really can't help with that.
Best advice would be to install framework, F and R axles, install large V8, lower mast and drive it home.

ps, if the autopilot gets fixed, can't you just get them to set it off and just wait at home for it to get here? Pretty sure that's what Andy G does...

[allan horsfall]

Hi Guys,

Great news, had to share it, my boat has made it to Gibraltar and all is well, the Med at last!!!

From now on I'll stick to relevant Forum topics, promise.

Allan