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Re: Fitting Lucas L539
I think mine have got rubber boots on the back of them.
I really don't like those coloured crimp connectors.
If you must use them, remove the coloured plastic and use heat shrink tubing to cover the connection. It looks far neater in my opinion and also protects the connection better.
Paul
I really don't like those coloured crimp connectors.
If you must use them, remove the coloured plastic and use heat shrink tubing to cover the connection. It looks far neater in my opinion and also protects the connection better.
Paul
Re: Fitting Lucas L539
Allan T made covers similar to small headlight bowls using an individual pudding container as a mould, which I think was fibreglassed in place. The wires were passed through grommets so were watertight. Personally I haven't bothered.
Cheers, Clive.
(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
- Roger King
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Re: Fitting Lucas L539
The lamp unit should have a one-piece rubber boot that covers the entire back of it, and includes the lip that the chrome retaining ring is held in place by. The three mounting screws go through the mounting plate of the lamp, then the black rubber backing, then into the body of the car. The rubber backing is one piece with the black condom-y bit that goes through the big hole in the body and has the wires poking out of the back of it, as a tight fit. So nothing is exposed in the wheelarch except for the wires as they go off into the harness. Looks like you might be missing that bit? - although what's holding the chrome rim on?
I would use soldered bullet connectors and appropriately-sized sleeving, all obtainable from Autosparks.
And yes, if you must break a wire and splice in a connection, solder the wires together and used heat shrink over the joint as Paul has suggested. The crimp will corrode and you will get an intermittent electrical problem, the best kind. Not.
Edit - ah yes, I see what happened there. I've been working on the Mini all day which has the same lights as the amber ones you posted a pic of, and I've got those in my brain. You have the twist-on chrome retainer. Still not sure why you don't have the integral rubber bit at the back - you shouldn't be able to see the metal of the lampholder through the wheelarch.
I would use soldered bullet connectors and appropriately-sized sleeving, all obtainable from Autosparks.
And yes, if you must break a wire and splice in a connection, solder the wires together and used heat shrink over the joint as Paul has suggested. The crimp will corrode and you will get an intermittent electrical problem, the best kind. Not.
Edit - ah yes, I see what happened there. I've been working on the Mini all day which has the same lights as the amber ones you posted a pic of, and I've got those in my brain. You have the twist-on chrome retainer. Still not sure why you don't have the integral rubber bit at the back - you shouldn't be able to see the metal of the lampholder through the wheelarch.
- Roger King
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Re: Fitting Lucas L539
Well, it's in direct line of fire for the muck and spray coming off the tyre, so I'd try and cover it somehow.
- amulheirn
- T289R Committee
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Re: Fitting Lucas L539
I just stumbled across this document, created by Allan Tunstall, in which he uses a fibreglass piece made over a M&S chocolate pudding pot to create a backing for these lights:
http://www.the289register.com/members/T ... cators.pdf
Cheers,
Andy
http://www.the289register.com/members/T ... cators.pdf
Cheers,
Andy