Roger King wrote: ↑Wed Apr 22, 2020 5:41 pm
I'll bet the 'FIA' body style never bothered with any sealing strips, so I'd probably leave them off. If you want a replica of a racing car, you have to make sacrifices!
They were chattering and rattling over bumps and the rivets holding the frame onto the door skins have chipped a little bit of paint off the door shut. I added the rubber strip and took it out to test and they are now silent even over the bigger pot holes.
I'm really surprised just how civilized these cars are actually. There isn't a single squeek or rattle coming from anywhere. Hats off to Gerry, these are very good cars
simonjrwinter wrote: ↑Wed Apr 29, 2020 8:20 am
Any pics Si? Did you put seal on the doors or door shuts?
Simon
I put the seals on the doors. they are very flexible and where the lip was thin i rolled it onto the return at a 40 degree angle. They stuck down fine and the door closes nicely with a nice germanic thunk. And no more rattles
ill grab a photo at the weekend. Its tucked away at home now awaiting the end of the current bother
Last edited by SiJackson on Mon May 04, 2020 8:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
I have used 11 x 6 self adhesive foam strip for the last 20 years on my FIA but this posting prompted me to check on them as I know there was some re glueing needed on the boot seal.
It appears that the last 4-6” of the seal at both front and rear of the doors at the top had either been pushed/ rolled to one side or become badly damaged by the closing function of the door.
So I set to the replace said sections and discovered that the brand new seal was being instantly damaged due to it being so grippy on the door jam as the door closed. So on the front section of each door I cut a chamfer on the seal across its width for a distance of 4-5 “. For the rear of each door I cut a chamfer on the end of the seal to help it slide across the top of the door jam.
This made a big difference but still wasn’t the complete answer. A quick spray of the door jam with silicon spray resolved any gripping of the seal where it needs to slide.
Cutting the seal needed a brand new scalpel blade to be able to attempt to cut it cleanly.
Time will tell if it’s the solution but hopefully will prevent it being pulled off too quickly.
After reading Rogers comments on where the seals should finish on both bonnet and boot poses a question. Was AC penny pinching by reducing the amount of seal they needed per car or is there a technical reason.
I hardly think any extra air is going to find it’s way in under the bonnet and likewise the boot gap is unlikely to provide venting of the boot area or is it? It would be a nice thought if the low pressure area behind the car was going to keep the boot from smelling.
Peter C
Last edited by peterc on Sun Jun 14, 2020 8:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Well, my boot has never smelt of anything except spare tyre! I don't let silicone anywhere near my paintwork, but haven't had any issues with the seals so the problem hasn't arisen.
I don't know the reason for the gaps, but it was true of all regular production CSX/COB/COX cars as far as my research has shown, so that's how it has to be.