Gauges - Mechanical vrs Electrical

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StewbieC
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Gauges - Mechanical vrs Electrical

Post by StewbieC »

I'm putting together a 289 SBF engine that will end up in a Hawk.
I'd like your comments on which Gauge / senders to use and some advice on positioning. I've a standard front sump and a 289 performer inlet manifold if that helps. :?

Cheers

Stuart
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clive
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Re: Gauges - Mechanical vrs Electrical

Post by clive »

Hi Stuart,
I have the Ford 302 and use the Smith's Cobra gauges from Speedy cables http://www.caigauge.com/page21.html . All are electrical except for the oil pressure gauge which is mechanical. For IVA you will need to specify bezels that meet the radius issues.
The senders I have used were supplied by speedy cable too with the exception of the oil temp sender which Gerry supplied. It is located in the sump and you need to drill a hole to enable it to fit. It is a relatively easy job, but you must ensure it is low enough to be in the oil at all times otherwise a false reading will occur.
The oil pressure and oil warning light are worked off a tee-piece which is located beside the oil filter, while the water temp sender is located on the top of the header just behind the distributor.
When you ask about positioning do you mean the position of the instruments on the dash? This is how the original should look, but would not be IVA complient.

Image

This is mine from SVA.

Image
Cheers, Clive.

(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
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Roger King
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Re: Gauges - Mechanical vrs Electrical

Post by Roger King »

I like the original-type mechanical gauges. I enjoy walking around the car after a run, seeing the readings still showing...

Not sad, just... different.

Having said that, I'm just changing the second Speedy Cables mech. water temp gauge to fail in 4 years.
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StewbieC
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Re: Gauges - Mechanical vrs Electrical

Post by StewbieC »

Thanks for the info gents.
The positioning question was for the capillary take off points / sender locations. I guessed right about the sump for the oil temp and the hole next to the oil filter for the oil pressure and oil pressure warning light. Do you take the water temp from the inlet manifold?

The main reason for the question was the reliabilty of the gauges. I've heard that the electrical ones can be a bit vague in their accuracy and that the mechanical ones can fail!

Cheers again gents! :D
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Re: Gauges - Mechanical vrs Electrical

Post by richmixture »

My opinion is go with all mech, i think the electric guage are gash - they alway have problems, simplicity is the way to go.

oil temp, fit that in the sump, water temp, you should have a place on the inlet manifold for you to fix that, oil pressure, i have to admit i am running a elcy on that, make sure you coil the coppper or the vibration will make it brittle and it will break, but aprt from that, your all good
Kris
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StewbieC
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Re: Gauges - Mechanical vrs Electrical

Post by StewbieC »

Hi again gents!

Thanks for the advice, I've gone for the mechanical gauges.

Any tips where to locate the oil temp connection in the sump. As I said before I've got a front sump. :)
so side, front or back?? (low down of course)

Cheers

Stu
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Roger King
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Re: Gauges - Mechanical vrs Electrical

Post by Roger King »

StewbieC wrote:Hi again gents!

Thanks for the advice, I've gone for the mechanical gauges.

Any tips where to locate the oil temp connection in the sump. As I said before I've got a front sump. :)
so side, front or back?? (low down of course)

Cheers

Stu
On the side, an inch or two up from the bottom of the sump on the driver's side. Capillary can then have a couple of coils before fitting to the chassis rail, along and up to the bulkhead before passing through directly to the instrument.

Incidentally, the '289 Sport Dash Layout' shown earlier in the thread is not as original. Switches and idiot lights were different to that shown - for example there should be 'air' vent pull controls at either end, the main beam warning light should be red and should be in the tachometer face etc. etc.
However, as noted, if you do it as per original you stand no chance of passing SVA or IVA.

I'll let you know soon whether you should send to CAI or Speedograph Richfield for repair when they fail!!

Roger
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Re: Gauges - Mechanical vrs Electrical

Post by StewbieC »

I like the "when" rather than "if" being the case. :P
Cheers for that Roger.

By the way, i'm trying to source one of the original expansion tanks (similar to the 62 Lincoln) I'll let you know how I get on and what the prices come in at.

Cheers for the help chaps.

Stu
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Re: Gauges - Mechanical vrs Electrical

Post by Roger King »

StewbieC wrote:I like the "when" rather than "if" being the case. :P
Cheers for that Roger.

By the way, i'm trying to source one of the original expansion tanks (similar to the 62 Lincoln) I'll let you know how I get on and what the prices come in at.

Cheers for the help chaps.

Stu
Yes, it's hard to know how far to go under the bonnet - personally, I keep this area in the correct 'feel', but don't go wild about originality. Nothing would make me fit a dynamo, I don't want HiPo cast exhaust manifolds, Gerry's radiator arrangement is more successful than the original, and the real killer for originality is the lack of a ruddy great leafspring lying in full view in front of the engine. Hence my car has Gerry's header tank!
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clive
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Re: Gauges - Mechanical vrs Electrical

Post by clive »

Roger King wrote: Nothing would make me fit a dynamo,
Not even one like this?

http://www.racemettleltd.co.uk/dyn.html
Cheers, Clive.

(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
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