rear spring bolt

[Slowjoe]

Im about to fit rear springs with mg lowering block and longer u bolts.Could someone explain what the longer special bolt is.I know you use a longer bolt through the chassis but don't understand about the one through the spring,Thanks Joe

[Old Boy Racer]

SJ,
not sure I can help but I'll bet Roger can Any pictures to illustrate what you mean?

Robin

[Roger King]

SJ,
not sure I can help but I'll bet Roger can Any pictures to illustrate what you mean?

Robin

Sorry - I"m no use whatsoever for this, as I assume you're talking about leafsprings. As Manuel would say, 'I know narthing'!

[Slowjoe]

Yes I'm talking about the bolt in the middle of leaf spring.In Stewarts build he replaces this.Sorry unable to supply pictures as tecnology spelling and car building are not strong points.By the way Robin like the wheels and car. I assume the yellow ring at the rear is a towing point ? do you have one for the front and if so could you explain how you fit them.Thanks again Joe

[Roger King]

Ah - there should be a long, fairly thin bolt that goes through the centre of the spring. This serves two functions: it holds all the leaves together in alignment, and acts as a locating pin for the rear axle perches. It does on US leafsprung cars, anyway - I'd assume the MG axle is the same. Sometimes with lowering blocks this bolt needs to go through all the spring leaves and the lowering block to keep everything in alignment. If you have the springs there, I would expect there to be a shorter version of this bolt already in place through the middle of the leaf pack. Remove this, add the lowering block, and put the new bolt through the whole lot.

The above is based entirely on experience with American leafsprung cars - I have never (and hopefully never will) worked on an MGB.

Further thoughts - lowering blocks are horrible things and effectively act as a 'bodge'. Is it not possible to get reprofiled/rate springs to remove the need for them? I note Moss sell lowered (or raised) competition springs for MGBs. Bs are raced and modified as much as any other car - modified springs must be available.

[StewbieC]

Hi Joe,

The reason why the bolt is replaced is because the standard bolt supplied with the spring is too short. From memory, the sandwich of plates and packers is bolted to the spring. You just need to use the bolts supplied in Gerry's packer set. (Together with the longer U bolts and packers).

Roger for info, its Building a 289 - The rear end.

Hope that helps.

[StewbieC]

Roger,

Correct.

The Hawk already uses the MGB lowered springs and they need to be lowered further with the packers. (Packers above the spring and axle above those).

[v8bassman]

I have never (and hopefully never will) worked on an MGB

I guess there may be a story here Roger, care to enlighten us as to why?

[Old Boy Racer]

Because it starts with M and ends in B?

Robin

[Roger King]

I have never (and hopefully never will) worked on an MGB

I guess there may be a story here Roger, care to enlighten us as to why?

Probably not, as I don't wish to upset anyone!

Robin's close....
My comment is a slight lie. I have worked on them, metalwork only, and just don't like 'em, really. I think it's something to do with living with the damn things when they were current, and they were archaic then - gutless engines, BL build quality, and later atrocious handling when they first went rubber bumper. They also rot for England, and major body repair (castle sections, etc.) is difficult and not fun. They were contemporary with Alfa Spiders, Elans, 240Zs, even GT6s - and I just couldn't see the point. Yes, I know, I had Healeys, which were also cart springs and lever-arms - but at least that 3000 motor could really fly with a bit of work.

An entirely personal point of view, but you did ask!