If you have a hardtop (bubbletop or leMans) would you be able to tell me where the edge of the hardtop stops at the door aperture?
Is it flush with the top of the door cut out, or does the hardtop's internal moulded lip (for the sidescreen location) protrude just proud of this?
Thanks, Kevin
Question for Hardtop owners
Re: Question for Hardtop owners
On the Hawk it sits about 3mm back from the door aperture.
Kev Davies
DAX Mk4, 383 Chevy Stroker, Tremec. SOLD
Contemporary CCX 3-4028, 445ci Big Block FORD FE,TKO 600. SOLD
Dax De Dion LS2 and T56. SOLD
1965 Ford Mustang 289 Convertible SOLD
In build Hawk 289 (302) Sebring. Awaiting IVA:D
DAX Mk4, 383 Chevy Stroker, Tremec. SOLD
Contemporary CCX 3-4028, 445ci Big Block FORD FE,TKO 600. SOLD
Dax De Dion LS2 and T56. SOLD
1965 Ford Mustang 289 Convertible SOLD
In build Hawk 289 (302) Sebring. Awaiting IVA:D
Re: Question for Hardtop owners
Thanks Kev, is that the front edge of the internal lip is 3mm back or the lip is flush and the external aperture is 3mm back?
- nikbj68
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Re: Question for Hardtop owners
How definitive do you want to get?
Here’s the original Le Mans top, at Le Mans, 1963. (Minus rear window!) And last year, still looking pretty similar: Shame the angle of this doesn’t show the lip.
Mine is approximately level with the door opening when I put it on, but that’s not necessarily where it stays. And from the other side:
Here’s the original Le Mans top, at Le Mans, 1963. (Minus rear window!) And last year, still looking pretty similar: Shame the angle of this doesn’t show the lip.
Mine is approximately level with the door opening when I put it on, but that’s not necessarily where it stays. And from the other side:
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Hawk 289 FiA...AT LAST!!!
Re: Question for Hardtop owners
That's perfect- thanks Nik.
I notice the U-channel added round the perimeter - does this form a good seal round the sidescreen top, or do you just accept that there is a bit of draft that blows in? I attached some knock-on boot rubber with an O-shaped moulding which I thought might give a better seal
I notice the U-channel added round the perimeter - does this form a good seal round the sidescreen top, or do you just accept that there is a bit of draft that blows in? I attached some knock-on boot rubber with an O-shaped moulding which I thought might give a better seal
- nikbj68
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Re: Question for Hardtop owners
The U-channel is pretty good and with the front of the Perspex tucking behind the screen pillars, the sidescreens hold pretty firm without rattling or drafts. I have also added some 8 or 10mm D-section sponge rubber seal along the edge of the hardtop to act as a gutter to prevent the rain from capillarying in...
Your boot seal may well do both jobs in one, but I hope it is soft enough that the sidescreens don’t stand proud of the hardtop reveal.
The biggest area for drafts is under the sidescreen, It feels like there is a nut on the underside of the frame where the legs are welded on, and when you add that, the covering, and the ferrules on the door, it gives a gap of over 1/2”! Obviously, there is the flap on the outside, but I have found that at (even moderate) speed, this will lift, especially if the material is a couple of mil too long where it hits the windscreen pillar. I now fold that corner under, which helps, but I also tape along the full length of the sidescreen frame to the door (same tape as I use across the top of the windscreen, like all of the racers do!). One day I will get around to fitting something that will fill this void, and would be interested in others’ solutions.
...maybe cutting a gutter/overhang into the top would act as a drip rail, but for now, the rubber is doing fine.Your boot seal may well do both jobs in one, but I hope it is soft enough that the sidescreens don’t stand proud of the hardtop reveal.
The biggest area for drafts is under the sidescreen, It feels like there is a nut on the underside of the frame where the legs are welded on, and when you add that, the covering, and the ferrules on the door, it gives a gap of over 1/2”! Obviously, there is the flap on the outside, but I have found that at (even moderate) speed, this will lift, especially if the material is a couple of mil too long where it hits the windscreen pillar. I now fold that corner under, which helps, but I also tape along the full length of the sidescreen frame to the door (same tape as I use across the top of the windscreen, like all of the racers do!). One day I will get around to fitting something that will fill this void, and would be interested in others’ solutions.
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Hawk 289 FiA...AT LAST!!!
Re: Question for Hardtop owners
Thanks Nik very useful stuff.
I'll give all of this some thought over the next month or 2 once I have finished the current surgery....... Perhaps I should start another thread entitled 'that didn't fit either....'
I'll give all of this some thought over the next month or 2 once I have finished the current surgery....... Perhaps I should start another thread entitled 'that didn't fit either....'
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Re: Question for Hardtop owners
Nik, I fitted a rubber seal along the bottom of the side screen. The gap changes in size quite considerably along the length so you need something that will adjust accordingly.
I found a moulding made with a circular hollow tube with an added flat for glueing. Possibly a variety of door seal.
Uncompressed it’s around 18mm and fully squashed it’s only 7mm. You need to stop and re start either side of the mounting pins otherwise it’s full length of the door section. E.g. not onto the scuttle area due to the sliding action of door opening/ closing.
The only issue I have had is glueing to the material of the side screen frame. Seems to need periodic replacement of the adhesive. Thinking about it I probably only used double sided tape when it needs some Evostic or similar.
I’ll investigate to see if I have some left over.
Peter C
I found a moulding made with a circular hollow tube with an added flat for glueing. Possibly a variety of door seal.
Uncompressed it’s around 18mm and fully squashed it’s only 7mm. You need to stop and re start either side of the mounting pins otherwise it’s full length of the door section. E.g. not onto the scuttle area due to the sliding action of door opening/ closing.
The only issue I have had is glueing to the material of the side screen frame. Seems to need periodic replacement of the adhesive. Thinking about it I probably only used double sided tape when it needs some Evostic or similar.
I’ll investigate to see if I have some left over.
Peter C