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Technical Area for all the problems you have in the garage
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FIA 347
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Post by FIA 347 »

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Last edited by FIA 347 on Fri Jul 08, 2022 9:15 am, edited 4 times in total.
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clive
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Re: Fuse identity

Post by clive »

From the Ford Engine wiring diagram, Blue/Red wire is to dipped headlights. The only relays that have brown wires appear to be the two radiator fans, which are fused, and the other is the starter motor relay which has Brown, Black, white/Red and White/Red wires.

I would also suggest checking the amperage of the fuses, as 10 amps would not be sufficient for the headlights or horn.
Cheers, Clive.

(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
FIA 347
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Post by FIA 347 »

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Last edited by FIA 347 on Fri Jul 08, 2022 9:16 am, edited 3 times in total.
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peterc
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Re: Fuse identity

Post by peterc »

It appears that your system is a little different to mine. I have only 5 relays not 6.
However the third fuse in the row with blue/ red wires ( as opposed to your blue/ brown ) is dip beam headlight/ rear fog.
I agree with Clive that adding up 2x55 watts plus 21 for the fog exceeds 10 amps. I think that needs a 15 amps despite the fact that mine only has a 10 amp as per all but two of my fuses. Perhaps I need to do some checking.
Your relays are obviously in a different order to mine but the one involving a blue with white trace is the headlight dip relay.
Hope that assists.
Peter C
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peterc
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Re: Fuse identity

Post by peterc »

Correction,
According to the fuse box the blue/ red is dip beam and blue/white is main beam.
Using a mirror to inspect the dip relay I can’t see a blue/ white only a blue/ red so it must be hidden.
What fuse have you got on the other headlight circuit?
I have always thought that the fuse blows at the rating value , therefore you need to add a working allowance otherwise the fuse will be getting warm.
2x60 for main beam is 10 amps so probably needs 12-15 amp fuse.
Comments anyone?
Peter C
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clive
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Re: Fuse identity

Post by clive »

My original fuse box was the canoe type and fitted with white 8 amp fuses throughout. It soon became obvious that these were wrong the first time I drove the car in the dark when the headlights stopped working after about 5 minutes.
Cheers, Clive.

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nikbj68
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Re: Fuse identity

Post by nikbj68 »

clive wrote: Thu Mar 04, 2021 11:32 am My original fuse box was the canoe type and fitted with white 8 amp fuses throughout. It soon became obvious that these were wrong the first time I drove the car in the dark when the headlights stopped working after about 5 minutes.
I’m still on the ‘canoes’, but have had the same issue as the original post. Despite fitting ‘ceramic’ fuses, they have melted, but not blown!
Hawk 289 FiA...AT LAST!!!
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clive
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Re: Fuse identity

Post by clive »

Welcome to the club Nik! I replaced my canoe fuses for a smaller, compact blade style fuse box and instantly noticed a difference in the car's electrics. The gauges are now accurate and lights brighter due to better contact with the fuses. Perhaps not as authentic, but does a far better job.

Image

Image
Cheers, Clive.

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nikbj68
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Re: Fuse identity

Post by nikbj68 »

Yeah... it’s on my “I’ll get around to it” list...🙄😖🤦🏻‍♂️😬😂
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clive
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Re: Fuse identity

Post by clive »

It didn't take long as it is a simple pull off/push on wire job. If I remember it took about 20 minutes.
Cheers, Clive.

(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
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