Crappy 'Lucas' switches

[amulheirn]

On my way home from Goodwood (as a few people noticed) my lights failed completely. Managed to track it down to a failed head/sidelight switch on the dashboard. I got the right combination of wires on some alternative pins and had enough light to get home with fortunately.

Since then, two different club members have each told me they are on their second switch because they're not very well made. I bought a replacement which is a Lucas clone, but of course I've no way of knowing if that's going to be better or worse than what was in there before - and if I got a genuine Lucas item, would that be any better?

Wondered what anyone else has done here? I guess fitting relays might be the thing to do instead perhaps.

Andrew

[amulheirn]

I took the broken switch apart just now - a pin holding one of the brass wipers must have got hot enough to melt its way loose:

0DB51862-549D-45B2-8068-D8D5292DEC34.jpeg

[clive]

Do you not have headlight relays in the loom?

[StewbieC]

Indicator relays and canoe fuses are other typical failures.
I always keep a spare relay and I changed the fuses to blade type.
I managed to get a NOS Lucas light switch that seems to have lasted.

Lucas are not known as the "Prince of Darkness" by the Americans for nothing

[amulheirn]

[Migge]

I guess that's why Ken Miles etc. uses old aircraft switches on their comp. cars. Me too

[Migge]

Picture

[KevinW]

I had a similar problem with a NOS Lucas rotary wiper switch.
I bought one of these, on Simon's recommendation - pricey, but now I see it is hand-made, I understand why.
https://www.holden.co.uk/p/triumph-tr6-switch-1
Problem solved.

[289Glenn]

My suggestion for the "crappy" Lucas switches is to use them only to control a remote power relay. I never use a dash switch (lights, fans, horn) to send the high current power to the device. Each accessory gets its power from a large gauge power wire going to the battery (Fused of course). Then I secretly hide small 25 amp automotive relays that then send "clean" power directly to the headlights, horn, and or fan. Conventional halogen headlights can illuminate up to 25% brighter just by powering them directly with "battery" power.

If there is enough interest, I will share my conversation with an OEM electrical engineer at FORD. He told me FORD purposely uses too small a gauge wire for the headlights in the F150 trucks. The reason will surprise you.

I have had my dash fan override switch fail 3x. (Combined in the ERA and the Hawk) Lucas does not discriminate. The contacts are just TOO small and they have too much resistance to safely switch that much power. Now my crappy Lucas switches are happy and boy-o-boy (Yank term) does my SPAL fan spin super high RPM now. The fan relay is right next to the thermo switch so now either the thermo or override switch is not loaded down and the fan really roars. Car runs SO much cooler in traffic too.

Super simple to do.

Cheers,

Glenn

[clive]

I have had my dash fan override switch fail 3x. (Combined in the ERA and the Hawk) Lucas does not discriminate. The contacts are just TOO small and they have too much resistance to safely switch that much power. Now my crappy Lucas switches are happy and boy-o-boy (Yank term) does my SPAL fan spin super high RPM now. The fan relay is right next to the thermo switch so now either the thermo or override switch is not loaded down and the fan really roars. Car runs SO much cooler in traffic too.

Super simple to do.

Cheers,

Glenn

Hi Glenn,

Here in Scotland there is very little need for radiator fans, even in the height of summer!