Dashboard covering

[Homewood]

Hi I have been made to cover my dashboard after some years...I have some rather thick leather I intend to use.

I plan on using spray adhesive, my question is should I enlarge all the holes and try to get the leather tucked throat d glued to the back or can I just trim holes after gluing the leather only on the front face.

Any experience on this method most welcome.

Thanks

[peterc]

Hi Tony,
I had my dash covered professionally as I wasn’t confident with working with the leather and ensuring I made a good job at first attempt.
I was asked to make the gauge holes large enough to fold the leather through and given a sample to gauge the extra size needed.
Switch holes were size for size. I’m sure a very sharp scalpel was needed to get a neat edge. I had difficulties when I changed a couple of switches needing a larger hole. Not as easy as you think it should be.
Peter C

[simonjrwinter]

I stretched my leather, face down on a board, then stapled it into place. I then put spray glue on both the dashboard and leather and placed the dashboard on to the leather. I then pulled out the staples and wrapped the leather around the edges. From the back of the dashboard you can the make multiple cuts around the instrument holes and pull back the small “v” shapes to be stuck. Cutting circular holes in the front rarely works out well…..
Simon

[StuBaker]

I don't know how it was originally done but my experience was similar to Peter and Simon.

Switches need to be as tight as possible in the ally hole, no leather. If you look you'll probably see the leather is almost thicker than the nut overlap.
I snapped a Stanley blade to about 4mm and fitted in a pin drill chuck to slice away the leather. The ignition switch has a flat on it. Not sure how you would drill that but it does stop the switch turning when you start the car.

I only had hole saws for the instruments so the holes were a little large and I folded in the leather to make a snug fit. Not so important here as they are clamped differently.
One further observation. One dash I have seen, which I am sure is original, has a square plate behind the small gauges to reinforce the cut outs. This area will be quite flimsy especially if you've used 18g. My last dash was 16g as there was only one bend in it and it didn't need reinforcing.

When gluing the leather it is difficult to do if you use contact adhesive. Once on you can't move it. The leather needs to move and stretch around the contours. You can either spray the areas as you go or re wet the tacky surface with glue just before attaching. Practice on a dry run first to feel how the leather handles and stretches. The flat areas can be glued first and wont be affected by stretching later. Make sure you have sufficient glue around the holes and edges to prevent pulling and twisting around the switches later on.
I used 1.6mm leather and it was much more forgiving to fit than the vinyl I first used.
There are some really good videos on Youtube showing how to fit leather on interior trim. Those guys are wizards.
Good Luck,
StuB

[StuBaker]

This is the one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IaSm3zoWrAo
If you can do this you can do a 289!
Cheers,
Stu

This is good too, notice no glue on the face:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCT86sd37g4

[Homewood]

Thanks for all that useful information, so I will fold the leather back on instruments and cut out hole to metal on switches. Glue and stretch leather in sections making sure lots of glue is used around switches.

Obviously more work than just cutting but Iay as well do correctly.

Cheers

[StuBaker]

Sounds like a plan.
I never asked, is your dash aluminium or glass fibre?
StuB

[Homewood]

Decided to try it out on a scrap piece of leather and it was worth the time, all holes now of correct size.

IMG-20230211-WA0001.jpeg

[StuBaker]

Excellent, worth all the effort.

[simonjrwinter]

Good idea. Please post some pics when done.