Clutch slave/pushrod/release arm

[peterc]

Hi Simon,
Thanks, those dims look just like my old set up. E.g. a nominal 1mm clear on each side. Seeing a black bearing support , is that plastic or coated steel?
The new set up is 38 & 43. E.g. a nominal 2.5 each side.

Just heard from Rimmers and they are sending through another bearing support in the hope it is correct.
Fingers crossed.
I don’t really want to start modifying a brand new part.
Peter C

[simonjrwinter]

Plastic

[simonjrwinter]

Right, all back in with a longer pivot pin (see pic)
The rod sticks out of the bellhousing by about 1.5”. Now seems to have a decent stroke on the clutch pedal….time will tell!

IMG_7376.jpeg

[peterc]

How has it changed the bite position of the clutch.
Peter C

[simonjrwinter]

Engine isn’t running yet bet previously there would have only been about 5mm of movement from the slave cylinder, this now has a pretty full sweep

[peterc]

When the bearing assembly is fully back towards the gearbox I have 42mm of rod sticking out of the bell housing which I would have thought was enough bearing in mind the slave cylinder protrudes into the housing.
Just measured the slave cylinder and it looks OK.
Out interest what height is your new pivot pin.
Peter C

[peterc]

For future reference to others.
V8 Developments advise that the pivot pin for a V8 should b 36 mm high from gearbox to center of the ball. That’s 40 overall height.
The shorter one is for a 2.6 engine and is circa 26 high.
My clutch rod sticks out from the bell housing around 14 mm when the release bearing engages with the clutch fingers.
Taking various dimensions and calculating the ratio of movement provided by the clutch fork I believe it provides over 18 mm of movement on the clutch fingers. The web suggests you only need 12mm.
Not forgetting that when the clutch wears the arm will push the rod further back into the slave cylinder.
I’ve just had my gearbox back off to check it. Didn’t fancy putting the engine back in and then finding there was an issue.
Peter C