removing starter motor

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SJ
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removing starter motor

Post by SJ »

How the hell can I remove my starter, I have a nice shiny racemettle waiting to go on.
The beast of a starter I currently have is squeezed in between the down pipe with the contacts touching the exhaust wrap.
The block huggers i have are welded in one piece round the bend past the first box.
So even if i remove them it will only give me a little bit of extra movement.
:(
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StewbieC
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Re: removing starter motor

Post by StewbieC »

Hi SJ,

Not good!

Three options from how I see it. Leave the set up how it is, cut the exhaust and reweld (possibly include a joint) or cut through the old starter (not easy). Even with the engine out It'll be a pig of a job!

If there's really no room then there's really no real other option!
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Stu
Hawk 289, 66 Mustang Fastback with a 289 maximum smiles per mile..
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Roger King
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Re: removing starter motor

Post by Roger King »

As the Irishman giving directions would say, 'ah, well, I wouldn't start from there.'
Stewie's answer says it all, really - the rule is, never fit a full-size starter to a 289.
To remove the starter, it has to move backwards. Therefore the exhaust has to move to accommodate this.
How did you get the exhaust on in the first place? Reverse this procedure, whatever it was.
I can't see you cutting through an entire starter motor, even out of the car. Only, just maybe, with a gas axe. If you try this with it in the car, have the fire brigade on call.
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clive
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Re: removing starter motor

Post by clive »

At least you will now have something to post on the "Things I Wish I'd Known When Building...." section. :twisted: :wink:
Cheers, Clive.

(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
SJ
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Re: removing starter motor

Post by SJ »

Problem solved - almost.
Took an angle grinder to the exhaust just after the 90 degree bend (couldn't access the top of the bend) and removed the exhaust.
Had to remove all the studs on the headers on that side, so I could now jiggle the block huggers for a bit of room.
Was just about able to get at the bolt and nut securing the starter motor. had to use a box spanner and managed to turn the top bolt bit by bit with leverage from an allen key . There was just about enough room for the starter to drop down with a bit of jiggling of the block huggers.
Shiny new racemettle starter now in place with lots of room and away from heat. Just have to re-attach headers and fix exhaust somehow.
No pictures - blood from my knuckles would have ruined the camera - steel exhaust wrap ties were very sharp.
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Roger King
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Re: removing starter motor

Post by Roger King »

SJ wrote:Problem solved - almost.
Took an angle grinder to the exhaust just after the 90 degree bend (couldn't access the top of the bend) and removed the exhaust.
Had to remove all the studs on the headers on that side, so I could now jiggle the block huggers for a bit of room.
Was just about able to get at the bolt and nut securing the starter motor. had to use a box spanner and managed to turn the top bolt bit by bit with leverage from an allen key . There was just about enough room for the starter to drop down with a bit of jiggling of the block huggers.
Shiny new racemettle starter now in place with lots of room and away from heat. Just have to re-attach headers and fix exhaust somehow.
No pictures - blood from my knuckles would have ruined the camera - steel exhaust wrap ties were very sharp.
Very well done! All 'proper' cars should have several areas marked with bodily fluids.

I have a somewhat similar problem, in that I am planning to remove Gerry's standard headers to fit some nice JBA stainless ceramic-coated block huggers, but have had no success in trying to remove them in the past. The problem is the clamp that fixes the header to the 90° bend where the exhaust sweeps under the car - after 6 years and 10,000 miles the two are fused together, and the header will not come out upwards or downwards with the bend section connected. Hammering and chiselling has not succeeded, but access is not easy and I've been careful to keep the car driveable, so may not have hit it hard enough. I'll try a good soak in diesel before some more hitting, but if anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears.
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clive
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Re: removing starter motor

Post by clive »

Mine comes off pretty easily especially after bottoming out in a dip etc. :shock:
If you are using diesel, add some oil to it to act as a lubricant. I always found certral heating oil to be the best.
Cheers, Clive.

(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
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Roger King
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Re: removing starter motor

Post by Roger King »

clive wrote:Mine comes off pretty easily especially after bottoming out in a dip etc. :shock:
If you are using diesel, add some oil to it to act as a lubricant. I always found certral heating oil to be the best.
Thanks Clive - did you ever get around to testing the fan operation? I know you've had a little bit of weather up there (odd - nowt down here), which obviously precludes driving the car. Do they cycle when it's stationary, or stay on (with the bonnet closed)?

Thanks,

Roger
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clive
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Re: removing starter motor

Post by clive »

Hi Roger,
Sorry but I've never got round to doing it yet. The car was off the road at the beginning of November as I have been replacing the front timing cover gasket and crankshaft oil seal. Since then there has been salt on the roads and this last week the lunchtime temps have been around -9 degrees.. It is rather temperate today (+2*c) but more cold forecast for next week. I think I will have to wait until normal temperatures resume to give an accurate indication of how the fans work in normal circumstances.
Of course if anyone in the balmy south wishes to take up the challenge I will stand aside and let them do so.
Cheers, Clive.

(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
SJ
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Re: removing starter motor

Post by SJ »

[quoteI have a somewhat similar problem, in that I am planning to remove Gerry's standard headers to fit some nice JBA stainless ceramic-coated block huggers, but have had no success in trying to remove them in the past. The problem is the clamp that fixes the header to the 90° bend where the exhaust sweeps under the car - after 6 years and 10,000 miles the two are fused together, and the header will not come out upwards or downwards with the bend section connected. Hammering and chiselling has not succeeded, but access is not easy and I've been careful to keep the car driveable, so may not have hit it hard enough. I'll try a good soak in diesel before some more hitting, but if anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears.[/quote]

Well I could only remove mine complete with bend with the starter removed, steering disconnected and all ex-manifold studs removed. Even then it was very tight with a few scrapes of chorome along the way. Should have taken the rocker covers and adpator paltes off would have made it easier but didn't.
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