I've recently received Gerry's fuel line kit for my RV8 289 roadster, but I'm having trouble figuring out what to do with the tank-to-pump section. This section of line is nearly 90 cm long, which is long enough to reach from the pump mounting bracket all the way back to the rear spring shackles(!), but it's only about 50 - 60 cm to get from the pump to the through-floor position. I must be missing something about the intended route because I can't figure out what on earth to do with the extra 20 - 30 cm of line!
Stuart's build log has pretty clear picture of his route, using a modified version of Gerry's line, but that looks to be about 60 cm. Certainly if I try to mock up the same thing, I have so much spare line it dangles right down to the axle.
Reading the wiki guidance I can only assume that Hawk have changed the expected mounting position of the pump. I mounted my pump under the boot floor on the rear side of the step up portion. The pipe approached it from a bulkhead fitting through the boot floor not far from the tank outlet.
Are you using a bulkhead fitting or passing the pipe through a grommet and connecting to the tank. I can’t measure the pipe length now as the pump is all boxed in but I would agree 90 cm does seem rather long.
Why not check with Gerry and if necessary use BGC to shorten it to your needs.
Peter C
The build manual, the parts in the fuel line kit, and a quick chat with Gerry all suggest that the pump location and pipe setup is still the same as shown in Stuart's build log. Stuart's log includes photos of the pump location. In other words: the pump is mounted under the floor on the step-up and there's a through-floor connector in the boot with a separate piece of pipe for above-the-floor vs below-the-floor. Trying to get into more detail over the phone with Gerry didn't really work.
From some more fiddling around last night it seems like it could be made to fit by taking a wiggly route but I'm not happy with where the glass filter ends up. I need to decide if I'm OK to put up with that for at least a while vs. just get a new/modified pipe (perhaps with a fuel tap instead of the filter).
I don't know the build manual and I don't know if Gerry has a new homepage for Hawk cars but on the homepage I know the pricelist is from 2014. Si I guess the manual is not updated also.
I chose to have a loop in the boot with a isolating valves to allow maintenance of the pump without needing to drain the tank. I originally used parts from the kit from Gerry but later changing the boot piping for a better valve and hoping to get rid of the smelly boot.
Sounds like the only difference between my set up and yours is merely I bolt through the fibreglass step and you bolt to the chassis.
Peter C
Err, no!
The curious thing is that many years ago having repositioned the pump below the floor from inside the smell disappeared. Happy bunny for over ten years. Then a few years ago it came back. I thought I had maybe damaged one or both sides of the shut off valve loop where it passes through the Ali tank cover. Hence the changing of the loop piping. But despite numerous re sealing of the joints the smell is still there and you can’t detect where the smell comes from. I now resort to propping open the boot by an inch or so and then no smell so the ‘leak’ must be pretty dam small.
Another member suggested it might be the vent pipe allowing fumes to penetrate the rubber.
I think it’s just annoying rather than dangerous.
Peter C
I cured my boot smell by doubling up on hose clips on the tank to filler, rubber hose. It now has 2 on the tank end and 2 on the filler end. This is standard practice on boat through hull fittings to ensure no leaks. Smell eradicated, also my boat is still afloat?